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Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)
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Glory Days 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Brown & Baird, 1985
Page Views: 616
Submitted By: Richard Shore on Jun 13, 2011
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Mark Collar on Glory Days 5.11

Description 

Across the road from the main Sespe Wall lies a steep 50 foot high face marked with two huecos on the bottom half.

Strenuous and dynamic climbing is the name of the game. The route starts with a run-and-jump to the first hueco, followed by a huge throw to the second hueco. Two more big moves up and then left lead to easier climbing and a vintage bolted anchor (1985 originals?).

The lead bolts are in decent shape, although the 4th bolt is missing a hanger. Use a wired stopper, rivet hanger, or bring along a hanger and crescent wrench :).


Protection 

4 bolts (1 hangerless), 2 bolt anchor.



Photos of Glory Days Slideshow Add Photo
Glory Days climbs the steep face past the two huecos
Glory Days climbs the steep face past the two huec...
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By Richard Shore
Jun 13, 2011

When I led this route in May, the lower two bolts looked good. The upper two did not have hangers, but did still have nuts attached. I happened to have an old SMC hanger and a small crescent wrench in my vehicle, and I replaced the third hanger while on lead. Exciting! If you climb this route, consider doing the same for the fourth bolt. I cinched a wired stopper around it instead.

By Richard Shore
Jun 26, 2011

After climbing this route again, I realized that it is extremely height dependent. My 5'4" partner couldn't even reach the hold at the jump start. If she had made it, I am certain that she never would have made the move to the second hueco without doing an all-points-off dyno. However tall you may be, I still suggest throwing yourself at this thing - loads of fun!

By Neil Roessler
Jul 27, 2011
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a R

Exciting route. extremely height dependent but a few fun moves leads to an unprotected slab. I would love to climb this in it's entirety but it needs two more hangers plus anchors.

By Richard Shore
Jul 27, 2011

It's not "R rated" if you can think outside the box. Just because there are/were hangers doesn't mean you can't adequately protect this route. Consider it a sport climb for trad climbers.

By Michael Stearns
Jul 16, 2012

This route is safe and really fun.

I slip knotted the hangerless fourth bolt with a dyneema sling. Definitely not the preferred method, but it worked in a pinch. The climbing eases significantly after the third bolt, so I didn't really feel it was a big deal.

I did notice the the fourth bolt jiggled in its hole. That is a little worrisome.

By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Jul 17, 2012

I think it's high-time this route saw some TLC. A few bolt-replacements are in order. I'm not advocating bolting ADDING, just replacement. Metal and sandstone wear down over time. Bring your bolt kits, people.

Richard, I still have your bolt kit, so you're absolved from responsibility.

Ha!

By Aaron InternetHardman Stireman
From: San Luis Obispo, California
Aug 20, 2012

There is a hanger on bolt 4 now, as well as 2 newer bolts at the anchor with rap links. Every move went static for me and im 5'8. Feet felt secure the whole way up. Fun route!

By William Domhart
From: Ventucky, CA
Feb 25, 2013

Thanks to whoever replaced the old bolts and anchor on this route. Fun, dynamic climbing at the bottom to a spicy slab move to gain the left side before easing up. This was my first 5.11 lead and I thought it was well protected. Height dependent as others have echoed.

By Hunter Bon
From: Slo, CA
Oct 14, 2013

Rad route, not really height dependent ( im 5'5). all bolts are solid as well as anchors.