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 ADVANCED
Sweet Pain Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A-Cute Pain T 
Gambler, The S 
Glitter Gulch S 
Lee Press On S 
Pain in the Neck S 
Sister of Pain S 
Slave to the Grind S 
Sour Pain S 
Sweet Pain S 

Glitter Gulch 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Guys from Colorado, 1991
Page Views: 6,656
Submitted By: EricD on Jan 19, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (164)
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Kayte Knower on Glitter Gulch

Description 

Begins on a ledge...first route on the left on this ledge. Sweet Pain is about 40' to the left. Big holds lead to the first bolt. After that, small holds get you to the second bolt. After the second bolt it's big holds, great feet and super-fun steepness.

Protection 

6 bolts to chain anchors


Photos of Glitter Gulch Slideshow Add Photo
Kayte Knower mid-crux on Glitter Gulch
Kayte Knower mid-crux on Glitter Gulch
SteveZ on Glitter Gulch
SteveZ on Glitter Gulch
Nate Erickson on Glitter Gulch. 5/29/11.
Nate Erickson on Glitter Gulch. 5/29/11.
Glitter Gulch.  Photo cred: T. Melin
Glitter Gulch. Photo cred: T. Melin
Fun route!
Fun route!
Going through the middle of the climb with some pu...
Going through the middle of the climb with some pu...
Glitter Gulch, Sweet Pain Wall (route is the one i...
BETA PHOTO: Glitter Gulch, Sweet Pain Wall (route is the one i...
Matt B. red-point - Glitter Gulch
Matt B. red-point - Glitter Gulch
Joe Simon on Glitter Gulch
Joe Simon on Glitter Gulch
Becky Tetzner pulling down!
Becky Tetzner pulling down!
Glitter Gulch
BETA PHOTO: Glitter Gulch

Comments on Glitter Gulch Add Comment
Show which comments
By Gary Savage
From: Las Vegas, NV
Feb 10, 2007

This one is 10D. There is only one hard move between the first and second bolt. The rest of the route is 10b.
By Kayte Knower
Feb 4, 2009

My good friend got on this route as her first 5.11. I'd say it's not going to hurt anyone to let the grade stand as is. At 5'2", the crux was plenty hard for me. The climbing on this route is really pleasant, and it offers a nice break from the hot sun in the middle of the day.
By Colin Brochard
From: San Francisco
Dec 9, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

11a in the book, and pretty soft at that.
By NickinCO
From: colorado
Mar 6, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

10D/11A I agree... I didn't really feel there was a "crux" just consistent climbing.
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Mar 18, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Love this climb! Great moves on great holds.
By socalbolter
From: Silverado, CA
Jan 31, 2013

Spinner last bolt has been replaced.
By Weston L
From: Summerlin, NV
Jan 12, 2014
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

One of the bolts is sticking out of the stone a bit - not an extreme amount, but enough that when I was clipping it, I raised my eyebrow enough it was almost as pumped as my pathetic forearms were.


Also, fantastic climb on good rock with some committing moves if you are short.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jan 25, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

On Jan 25th, 2014, the ASCA replaced the chain on this anchor with links and mussy hooks to facilitate cleaning and lowering.
By Daniel Nelson
From: Jackson, WY
May 26, 2014

Probably soft for grade, which is probably why it's my first 5.11 onsight. Regardless, sustained, pumpy jugs top to bottom make for my favorite sport route at Red Rock. Get this one and its neighbors. All stellar. The climbs on this wall are underrated IMO.