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Glide Path 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: FFA (with direct start): John Steiger, John Sherman, 1984
Page Views: 675
Submitted By: John Steiger on Nov 23, 2010
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Description 

This line was originally climbed in 1969 by a young Dave Baker (the soon-to-be owner of the Summit Hut) and Kem Johnson (who moved to Australia years ago) using pins for aid. Neglected for years until 1980, it went free at 5.11b by Herb North and John Fowler, who added a bolt to face climb into the lower part of the route from the opening moves of Chung King Corner. They named their version of the route Glide Path, which has since stuck. However, the North-Fowler line avoided both the bottom part of the crack as well as its finish. That same year, though, Phoenicians Jim Waugh, Brad Smith (before he moved to Tucson), and Jim Zahn climbed the North-Fowler start then freed the upper part, adding another 5.11 section. Four years later, the Verm and I managed to nab the entire crack free from its start, which creates an action-packed mixed bolt and gear climb that Iíve always thought comes close to Histoplasmosis in quality and difficulty.

If I recall, a number of the bolts were quarter-inchers, some that could be backed up with gear and consequently ignored and others that, well, youíd take a leap a faith when clipping. Not sure whatís there now. Although the bad bolts may warrant only three stars for this line, if it were cleaned up I'm fairly sure it would be a Lemmon classic.


Location 

The next line left of Chung King Corner. Itís the obvious right leaning crack system with a number of bolts.


Protection 

Standard Tucson trad rack (include micros).



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By Alex McIntyre
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 27, 2012

I was out at Knight's Wall on Sunday and checked this line out. It appears the bolts (at least those visible from the ground) have been replaced with nice new 3/8 or 1/2 inch fatties with shiny new hangers.

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 28, 2013

This is a tremendous route. Terrific climbing from start to finish, great pro (sometimes requiring a little bit of finesse), great rock, and aesthetic. We used stoppers, doubles to .75 Camalot, one #1, and one #2.

The 1/4" bolts on the 5.11 part of the climb were replaced (as Alex noted above). Thanks to whoever did this replacement as they took the time to remove the old bolt and drill out the old hole. The new bolts are 1/2" wedge bolts so I imagine they will be bomber for decades.

The three old bolts for the 5.12 start are gone. Presumably the folks that upgraded the rest of the hardware removed these at the same time as there are three clean holes where they used to be. It looks like it will be a piece of cake to finish the replacement.

By John Steiger
Nov 30, 2013

Cool to see this is getting some traffic. Re the direct start, from my perspective, I think you should feel free to ignore the old bolt placements (now holes) and engineer it with new bolts to maximize the free climbing experience; those old bolts were in a less than ideal location. I'm fairly sure DB won't mind. Keep it up Geir.

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 30, 2013

Thanks John! It really is a fantastic route.

I can ask Dave about those bolt locations just to make sure.