Glide Path  5.12a

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Consensus:  5.12a [details] FA:  FFA (with direct start): John Steiger, John Sherman, 1984 Submitted By:  John Steiger on Nov 23, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

This line was originally climbed in 1969 by a young Dave Baker (the soon-to-be owner of the Summit Hut) and Kem Johnson (who moved to Australia years ago) using pins for aid. Neglected for years until 1980, it went free at 5.11b by Herb North and John Fowler, who added a bolt to face climb into the lower part of the route from the opening moves of Chung King Corner. They named their version of the route Glide Path, which has since stuck. However, the North-Fowler line avoided both the bottom part of the crack as well as its finish. That same year, though, Phoenicians Jim Waugh, Brad Smith (before he moved to Tucson), and Jim Zahn climbed the North-Fowler start then freed the upper part, adding another 5.11 section. Four years later, the Verm and I managed to nab the entire crack free from its start, which creates an action-packed mixed bolt and gear climb that I’ve always thought comes close to Histoplasmosis in quality and difficulty.

If I recall, a number of the bolts were quarter-inchers, some that could be backed up with gear and consequently ignored and others that, well, you’d take a leap a faith when clipping. Not sure what’s there now. Although the bad bolts may warrant only three stars for this line, if it were cleaned up I'm fairly sure it would be a Lemmon classic.

Location 

The next line left of Chung King Corner. It’s the obvious right leaning crack system with a number of bolts.

Protection 

Standard Tucson trad rack (include micros).