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Glenn's Route 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Dean Brault, JSt,
Page Views: 1,352
Submitted By: 1Eric Rhicard on Jun 27, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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BETA PHOTO: Route Detail: The Steep (far right)


Getting to the second bolt is a bit spooky but the holds you are trying to reach are good and easy to clip from. There are no chains so you need a sling to donate to this climb. This may be fixed by the time you get on it. The anchors will probably be moved higher so the rope doesn't get hammered so badly when you lower off. The crux is at the top which I always like.


Start is the same as Stone Free moves right into darker steeper rock.



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By 1Eric Rhicard
Jun 29, 2006

This climb was bolted by Glenn Todd and Tony Lusk. Odds are that it had been climbed before last weekend.
By jbak
Jun 23, 2008
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Maybe we should just call this "Glenn's Route" until the real FAist (or someone) gives us something better.
By jbak
Jul 17, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

This is a totally kick-ass route. It gets steadily harder as you go, has nice movement, and has a final difficult (and hard-to-read) crux. Excellent. Perhaps should be named "The Wanderer" if all the dodging I did on the upper part is normal.

Now has CHAINS on the lower anchor which is where most sane people will end it.
By Clay Mansfield
Dec 3, 2010


Are you implying that I am insane, since you saw me climb the upper section above the first anchors?
By 1Eric Rhicard
Dec 10, 2011

Pretty sure Dean Brault and Jim Scott did the FA.
By jbak
Dec 21, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Eric, I bumped my rating up to 12a too. Really good route. Although not as striking looking as some, I'm now thinking this is the best route at the steep.
By JoeS
Jul 4, 2013

Really good route, but probably not the best at the steep. I suspect John would now agree that "Stepping into Blue Sky" is better (****). I also believe that several other routes at the Steep are of similar great quality to this route (Spiderman, Cres-sent, George of the Jungle, Two Birds).
By Mike Kane
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 17, 2015

Beta Warning

Hopped on this thing yesterday and was wondering if people are climbing straight over the last bolt or clipping it and moving back right to the arete and avoiding the second crux sequence? I climbed it both ways and the straight up finish is significantly harder (and way better.) There is a lot of variation in how people are grading this climb (11c to 12a/b) which got me curious...

Anyway this is a stellar route and every bit of 3 stars if you do the hard finish.
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Aug 17, 2015
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

I went slightly left after the last bolt and then back right only when I was pretty much on top of the anchors. By far the best part of the route and agreed it's the part that makes it three stars. Took me like 7 real redpoint runs to send this, so it was hard to give it just 12a.

"Slappin the Johnson" to the right felt significantly easier (even w no stem at the top) and would probably have sent on my second run were it not for breaking a foothold (got it next run).
By Mike Kane
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 17, 2015

Christian, thanks for responding. For what it's worth that is the sequence I am going to go with when I come back for this one. Was just hard to see that top crux going at 11c.
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