DjSulli @ Glen Canyon
photo: Telly Fry
This bouldering area is located inside the city of San Franciscoin Glen Canyon park, this offers the best and most variedbouldering in the city.
There are also several top rope possilbities, though for mostoptions you should bring slings and trad gear. A few bolts doexist, but there are not enough to consider this a top-roping area.
Climbing is on very sharp, juggy rock that presents itself asLarge flakes, mostly pointing up. This rock is known as Radiolaria.
Climbing off is simple, walk off to the hillside above, and walkback down the other side.
To get to Glen Canyon, go into San Francisco and find your wayonto the 280.Exit on the Monterey Blvd exit, and take a sharp right ontoMonterey Blvd.Take a quick left on Diamond Street, and 1/3 of a mile later goleft on Bosworth.
Go a block, and head right on Elk street, which up the hill willrun into Berkeley Way. You should go left on Berkeley way, andthen another left on Crags Court. At the end of Crags Court, youwill find a turn around, where you can park. You will find thepark itself by taking the trail that leads from the end of thecul de sac and heads downhill into the open Glen Canyon Park.
Browse More Classics in Glen Canyon
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Glen Canyon:
Featured Route For Glen Canyon
|By Anonymous Coward|
Jan 31, 2004
I'm from Salt Lake City, visiting friends in SF. Stopped by this bouldering area today. It was deserted, so apparently this isn't the place to meet the locals, but it still offerred some fun problems. As noted, the rock is fairly sharp. The area was nice for a bouldering area in the middle of a park. Next visit I'll probably bring a rope and try to find something a little more interesting/inhabited.
Great site, thanks for the beta!
|By Peter Monks|
May 23, 2004
I'm pretty certain there aren't any top roping bolts at Glen Canyon at all, at least not in the main area. There are a few stubs here and there (including some newish ones), but they've all been chopped and are unusable.
Nov 2, 2004
If you're entering via the day care center, pass the "kung Fu Bridge" You'll see the main wall. From right to left, theres plenty of lines that go and top out. For some reason, people tend to think it's just a traverse. While slightly overhung, the holds are positive despite the looks of the rock. One of my favorites is a 20 ft. arching liebackwith right hand pockets for you feet, 5.5
To the left of that is a short fist/hand crack, that leads to a blank overhung face, while you have a bomber foot stance, you slowly reach your hand to the lip, and mantle. It's about 27ft. And I don't think crash pads will save you for this one.(like 5.8 exposed)
Pass the main wall, up the small hillside is a visible roof"Unatural Act" Kind of huge, theres various ways of topping out. One, an obvious wide chimney. Its a little tough, but climb the first 10ft of it, while in there put a fist or hand on smallcrack and bring yourself up slowly, use you feet. Now that you're underneath the big ceiling, traverse right on the exposed face, hug the arete, feel the holds on the right face, and slowly start binging your feet, yeahh that's it! Now top out Monkey!!To the right of the roof is another cool soloable crack, its starts with easy face that lead to a short section of hands that you wish went for another 10ft. There's one bolt with a bomber hanger for T.R.
If youre looking for locals, I'm it, next to some 12 other fools I went to High School with. From time to time you'll see some O.G's climbing there but its been a while, and when there is,I show my respects. As a matter of fact its been a while since I was there, and it's rare nowadays that youll see another soul. That's why I'd like to call my patnas to go hang and smoke a little dank. When I'm not in Yosemite, I'm working here and there, sometimes I'll go my my lonley. For anyone outhere, don't be a stranger if you see us sending like crazy and you can't seem to do anything but the 4th class ramp, while you're hot girlfriend is watching, Don't be light!!!
|By Anonymous Coward|
Jun 24, 2005
There are boulder/short routes all over the place in Glen Park. And it's definitely not rare to see people climbing. I live just a short hop away in Noe Valley and used to ride my mountain bike there a few times a week and 50% of the time on weekends or nice evenings (rare for the area) there would be somebody on one of the areas. The problems you see people on the most are on the east side of the canyon up the hill (obvious when you are there), but for some reason it seems like the problems on the north side don't get as much attention. Pads are enough for a few routes, but bringing a rope and enough pro to set up a basic anchor opens up a bunch of short-route/long-boulder problems. Hours of fun, for sure.
From: So San Francisco
Jun 6, 2010
great fun for a workout spot. easy to find and lots of upper body builders. good day trip.