Glazed and Confused
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|Type: ||Trad, Ice, Alpine, 2 pitches, 160'|
|Consensus: ||WI3 [details]|
|FA: ||Tim Judkins, Nick Kuhn|
|Season: ||Starting late fall|
|Submitted By: ||Nick Kuhn on Nov 20, 2004|
Tim and Nick at the start of Glazed and Confused. ...
Glazed and Confused is the left-most ice line in the same ampitheater as Tunnel Vision and Smear and Loathing. Approach as per those routes.
P1, 120ft. Start to the left of Tunnel Vision, following alternating low-angle and occasional short steep ice that ascends over several rock steps to a large ledge with big trees and a short ice headwall on the right. The climbing can be funky in this section, with spots of thin ice poorly bonded to the rock below. Belay off fat trees.
P2, 40ft. From the huge ledge, climb 15ft of good moderate ice to the bush-covered ledge above. Bash through the bushes to join the beginning of Tunnel Vision's second pitch. Belay off screws and long slings to bushes, if you want 'em.
This route could be climbed as one pitch.
Descent: From the top of Glazed and Confused, you can continue on and climb the second pitch of Tunnel Vision and descend as per that route description. Otherwise, wade through some bushes to a tree to the left and rap 40ft to your last belay. Make another rap back down the first pitch's ice to the bottom. A 60m rope doesn't quite reach, but you can easily downclimb the last 15ft on climber's left.
60m rope, couple of stubbies and medium screws, webbing for tree anchors.
BETA PHOTO: The 'amphitheater' along the west side of Mt. Crai...
|Comments on Glazed and Confused
|By George Bell|
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 5, 2004
Hmm, stopping by for a pint of "Hazed and Infused" sounds mandatory after this climb ...