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Mt Craig
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Caveat Emptor T 
Glazed and Confused T 
Logjammin' T 
Smear and Loathing T 
Tunnel Vision T 

Glazed and Confused 

WI3

   
Type:  Trad, Ice, Alpine, 2 pitches, 160'
Consensus: WI3 [details]
FA: Tim Judkins, Nick Kuhn
Season: Starting late fall
Page Views: 661
Submitted By: Nick Kuhn on Nov 20, 2004

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Tim and Nick at the start of Glazed and Confused. ...

Description 

Glazed and Confused is the left-most ice line in the same ampitheater as Tunnel Vision and Smear and Loathing. Approach as per those routes.

P1, 120ft. Start to the left of Tunnel Vision, following alternating low-angle and occasional short steep ice that ascends over several rock steps to a large ledge with big trees and a short ice headwall on the right. The climbing can be funky in this section, with spots of thin ice poorly bonded to the rock below. Belay off fat trees.

P2, 40ft. From the huge ledge, climb 15ft of good moderate ice to the bush-covered ledge above. Bash through the bushes to join the beginning of Tunnel Vision's second pitch. Belay off screws and long slings to bushes, if you want 'em.

This route could be climbed as one pitch.

Descent: From the top of Glazed and Confused, you can continue on and climb the second pitch of Tunnel Vision and descend as per that route description. Otherwise, wade through some bushes to a tree to the left and rap 40ft to your last belay. Make another rap back down the first pitch's ice to the bottom. A 60m rope doesn't quite reach, but you can easily downclimb the last 15ft on climber's left.


Protection 

60m rope, couple of stubbies and medium screws, webbing for tree anchors.



Photos of Glazed and Confused Slideshow Add Photo
The 'amphitheater' along the west side of Mt. Craig.
BETA PHOTO: The 'amphitheater' along the west side of Mt. Crai...
Comments on Glazed and Confused Add Comment
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By Brian Tessier
From: Lakehood, Colorado
Dec 4, 2004

NICE !!!!!

By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 5, 2004

Hmm, stopping by for a pint of "Hazed and Infused" sounds mandatory after this climb ...