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Glass Ocean-bolts
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Jul 25, 2007
I'm looking for info on the quality of the bolts on Glass Ocean and Sail Away. They looked liked buttonheads to me. Did my eyes deceive me?

Looking at the route description this morn, there were comments about a missing bolt, a spinner, and a link to possible rebolting that wasn't available. Most comments were 2-3 years old, so I'd love an update.

They look like beautiful climbs I'd love to do!
NjC
Joined Jul 19, 2006
0 points
Jul 25, 2007
I did it last spring and remember seeing one less bolt or piton or something. But there is also good enough gear that I didn't miss it. tenesmus
Joined Jan 7, 2004
2,615 points
Jul 27, 2007
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch
NjC wrote:
I'm looking for info on the quality of the bolts on Glass Ocean and Sail Away. They looked liked buttonheads to me. Did my eyes deceive me?


Nope, you can see just fine.

Glass Ocean bolt.  SMC hanger with a Rawl button h...
Glass Ocean bolt. SMC hanger with a Rawl button head, looks to be 5/16".


Shot is from the Glass Ocean. I think they're all pretty much this vintage. Hard to believe those guys hand drilled that much quartzite. Looks like a 3/8" Rawl buttonhead, which would take forever for that diameter hole.

Buyer beware, but, I did that route last year (and a number of times in years past) and those bolts have always been bomber. I don't recall any of them being loose and they were all good placements, in sound rock.

Great route, I wouldn't skip it. Sail Away is fun too. Also a newer sparsely bolted variation to the right of Sail Away too. "Open Water". 5.7R-ish (a bit run out to the arete over by where the Glass Ocean and Sail Away finish up). Takes small to medium cams as I recall. Probably should pop it in the data base.

Cheers.
Brian in SLC
Joined Oct 6, 2003
11,030 points
Jul 27, 2007
Thanks for the helpful comments, Brian and Tenemus! The info on an extra route also explains the questions I had as I looked at the line on Sail Away. The position of the various bolts didn't make sense from afar. Also good to know the route can accept gear. I'm too new at leading to say the buttonheads aren't a problem, but I'll keep these routes on my to do list! NjC
Joined Jul 19, 2006
0 points
Jul 27, 2007
  Third bolt on last pitch of cheetah
The bolt in the picture is a 5\16 button head. I stoped trying to replace them because they were so hard to get out. I would trust them anyday. One 5/16 button head took me over an hour with a tuneing fork,funkness and a crowbar.

monkey
mikewhite
Joined Feb 28, 2007
98 points
Jul 27, 2007
Glass Ocean is a lot of fun. It's nice to know that the bolts are solid. samg
Joined Aug 22, 2006
45 points
Jul 27, 2007
With funkness, huh! My comfort level with those bolts is rising. Thanks again, all! NjC
Joined Jul 19, 2006
0 points
Jul 28, 2007
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch
mikewhite wrote:
The bolt in the picture is a 5\16 button head. I stoped trying to replace them because they were so hard to get out. I would trust them anyday. One 5/16 button head took me over an hour with a tuneing fork,funkness and a crowbar.


Yeah, correct (holding a 5/16" button head and SMC hanger as I type this). Used to place them on lead a bit. Head size in the picture threw me off, looked bigger than 5/16.

Mike, you changed phone numbers. Give me a jingle sometime and leave your new number!

Cheers.
Brian in SLC
Joined Oct 6, 2003
11,030 points
Jun 20, 2014
The bolts looked solid today, if a little dated. Still, if anyone decides to do some re-bolting on this wall, I would be happy to volunteer time, hardware, and beverages. Just PM me. Northwest Passage looked like it could use some attention, more so than Glass Ocean. Gabriel Tallent
From Salt Lake City, UT
Joined Sep 25, 2012
59 points


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