Glass Case of Emotion
||Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 4 pitches, Grade II
|Consensus: ||WI3-4 M4-5 [details]|
|Page Views: ||1,066|
|Submitted By: ||notmyname on Jan 17, 2009|
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This photo doesn't really do justice as to how awk...
This is a variation to Storm Mountain Falls after the 2nd pitch. Look for a thin sheet of ice dripping off just to the left of the "catchers mitt" formation, or just to the left of the 5.8 climb "leisure climb".
Pitch 3. From pitch two anchors of storm mtn falls, keep diagonaling left passing a few buldges. M3/4 This puts you above the anchors and overhang for the new 5.8 route, Leisure Climb. Gear anchor. M4
Pitch 4. A very tight and extremely awkward pitch. Drytool into the tight corner/ramp with the obvious ice flow (that forms the left border of the wildly overhung "catcher's mit" formation). 6" of swing clearance and lots of swearing on thin delaminating ice gets you out of the squeezebox and into a tight mixed ice choked corner. Belay from the chains at the top of the new 5.8 route. WI4 M5
Anyone who's ever done NY gulley in the Cascades will appreciate this variation I'm calling "Glass Case of Emotion" WI4 M5
Start as for any of the variations to storm mtn falls. Climb begins at pitch two anchors
Small rack of 2 screws, and light rock rack focusing on TCU sizes