Glamorama  5.12d

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet FA:  Matt Samet, Katie Cavicchio, Bill Launder New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Pinklebear on Jun 26, 2003 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Closures from February 15- August 15 MORE INFO >>> The closures as of now are route specific. In the main cave of the Fortress the whole west wall, gothdrome, and east wall/ bat cave areas are closed with nesting sites above those areas. Only the central super routes (Daily Planet to Flex Luthor) are open. Once nesting has been determined routes may open. No new routing (noisy power drills) can happen during this time period even in the open area. Avoid loud noises if at all possible. Routes east of the main cave are open. Please no caching of gear on Forest Service land. The forest service has been great in working out a very climber friendly management plan please be responsible! This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>> Voluntary seasonal falcon closure notice for the Fortress of Solitude from February 15- July 31. The closures are route specific. The central super routes (Daily Planet to Flex Luthor) are open. Once nesting has been determined routes may open. No new routing (noisy power drills) can happen during this time period even in the open areas of the main cave. Any routes east of the main cave remain open. Please no caching of gear on Forest Service land. The Forest Service has been very cooperative in establishing this plan; please be responsible.The specific routes to be closed are listed below with numbers from the Rifle/ Western Slope Wolverine Publishing guide book. For the left aerie: The Sandman (not in guide) 5. Lois Lame 8. Blind Date. For the right aerie: Ironman (not in guide) Snake Woman (not in guide) 17. The Kalous Logan 18.The Fuck Up -Bryan Gall This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This alluring line climbs the steep, southeast-facing blue/white wall about 40 feet right of Lois Lame, ending at a double-bolt anchor under a small roof between some large, cracked pillar-type features. Though it appears ultra-overhanging and blank from the ground, the line is blessed with great deep pockets, hidden from below, and doesn't climb as steeply as it looks.

Start by rockaneering up and to the right of an ugly cleft/chimney full of choss. Step back left, clip the first bolt, and continue up grey, shitty rock. At a right-trending diagonal, the stone turns bomber, about 40 feet up. Clip a bolt, step left, and continue traversing left on killer buckets until you're just below the person-sized hueco. Put your long slings on the bolt below and the bolt at the hueco to prevent rope drag higher on the route.

Have a seat in the hueco, take in the view, then up to another bolt. The climbing to here, about halfway up the route, makes for a good, overhanging 5.10+ warm-up.

Bust through two distinct cruxes separated by good pockets to a finger-lock rest below the finishing corner. Clip a bolt, stretch high for the final clip, and battle past an in-your-face finish to the anchors.

Named for the book by Bret Easton Ellis.

Protection 

12 quickdraws, two shoulder-length runners, and a 60-meter rope (mandatory).