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Glacier Gorge bivy options

Original Post
Mike Marmar · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 67

I am planning to visit Glacier Gorge next week and hopefully climb Spearhead. Obviously, the campsite is totally booked, so I was wondering what the options are for a bivy in GG (if it's even allowed)?

Thanks!

rob rebel · · Bend, OR · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 5

Yep allowed. You can bivy under a huge rock right near the base of spearhead. Have to check in with ranger station (backcountry station, not main one) and it is limited first come first server. I would call them today if I was you and get all the details and maybe you can reserve a spot?

It is a great benefit they do for climbers in the park. Have fun. What route are you going to climb?

Jason Antin · · Golden, CO · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,375
rob rebel wrote:Yep allowed. You can bivy under a huge rock right near the base of spearhead. Have to check in with ranger station (backcountry station, not main one) and it is limited first come first server. I would call them today if I was you and get all the details and maybe you can reserve a spot? It is a great benefit they do for climbers in the park. Have fun. What route are you going to climb?
+1,

I have varying opinions on this process, but as Rob Rebel mentioned, they are doing what they can to keep impact to a minimum in the park, so that's a good thing. Just like reserving a campsite, RMNP requires to you to register with them @ the Ranger Station (which closes @ 5pm), reserve a bivy permit which are limited, and let them know what your intended route is, helmet color(s) and rope colors. I have told them I wasn't quite sure what rope/helmet I would be bringing and they refused to issue the permit until I told them a color...

But I digress.

(Legal)Bivy Permits are very limited in the gorge so try and get a reservation soon. However I was up at Spearhead this past Sunday and there was nobody around!

Also, the permit is "free" with a $20 administrative fee. In the past I called to change dates by a day or two due to weather and they charged me an additional $20 administrative fee. One thing to note here is that you can "reserve" those sites for a while and not have to pay for a change in plans...

Have fun. GG is a great spot!
Mike Marmar · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 67

Great, thanks for the info. I'll give the office a call.

My partner and I are new to the alpine game, so we're going to try the North Ridge first and see how that goes. Maybe we'll get on something harder after that if we are up to it.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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