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Routes in Wall 2
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Atlantean a-Go-Go T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Barracudas! T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Fantastic Coffee T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Give Back My Walls! T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Monsters in the Bathroom T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Off to Work T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Piano Lessons T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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State of My Tractor, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Surfing the River (with a Boat on Each Foot) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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What Dumb-asses! T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 125 ft (38 m) |
| FA: | Ches Upham and Alex Lau, 6/10/12 |
| Page Views: | 843 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Chester Upham on May 27, 2014 |
| Admins: | andy patterson, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Face/Crack --> Chimney --> Tree --> Thin Crack --> Alcove --> Corner --> Dead Tree.
Once you find the base (see photos!), the route is obvious. Climb the crack to a short chimney that is just below a medium sized tree. From the tree, climb up to a small alcove and take the corner on the right to a belay platform.
Base: There is an uncleaned crack just to the right of the start. We chose to climb and clean the left variation, but the straightest start could still be done if you bring some gardening gloves..
Decent: Walk right from the belay platform to the bolts and rap.
Once you find the base (see photos!), the route is obvious. Climb the crack to a short chimney that is just below a medium sized tree. From the tree, climb up to a small alcove and take the corner on the right to a belay platform.
Base: There is an uncleaned crack just to the right of the start. We chose to climb and clean the left variation, but the straightest start could still be done if you bring some gardening gloves..
Decent: Walk right from the belay platform to the bolts and rap.
Protection
Rock quality at the back of the chimney is poor and protection there shouldn't be trusted. Place good gear beforehand and use the side walls. Bring a longer sling for the tree.
Several medium sized cams (BD 2-3) fit in the first half of the climb. Smaller offset nuts work well for the top half.
Anchor cracks take small/medium cams (blue/brown tricam size). You'll have plenty of rope left to use for your anchor at the top.
Several medium sized cams (BD 2-3) fit in the first half of the climb. Smaller offset nuts work well for the top half.
Anchor cracks take small/medium cams (blue/brown tricam size). You'll have plenty of rope left to use for your anchor at the top.
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