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 ADVANCED
Scout Slab
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Git 'em Up Scout S 
Ring of Power T,TR 
Super Mario Brothers 
Sword- That- Was- Broken, The T 

Git 'em Up Scout 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Richard Wright, Anna Brandenburg-Schroeder, 2001
Page Views: 913
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on May 4, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO

Description 

Git 'Em Up Scout takes the major feature of Scout Slab, a large flake, up to the main grey slab. Lots of ways to do the flake; I treated it like a chimney. The slab is thin and technical but well protected. Fun, moderate, with good moves give "Git 'Em Up Scout" its star.

Protection 

QDs only. This 80 - 85 foot route needs about ten draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top. The top is very cozy. You can rap from here, but it is a lot more simple to walk off North.

Eds. apparently all but the 1st bolt have been removed. Some officials were seen in the area working on something. Bring gear.


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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 6, 2013
By Wade Easley
Jun 26, 2003

This is a good route for those inspiring to lead. It's really well protected, and all of the more challenging moves are protected by waist to knee high bolts. The photo suggests the route goes up and left after the first bulge. The bolt line would suggest the route goes up and right after the first bulge. Kudos to Richard Wright for bolting some routes that everyone can enjoy!
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 1, 2003

There is a second route that comes in from the left and joins Git 'em Up at about bolt 4. Has this been freed?
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Aug 1, 2003

Paul - The left variation has been freed. Bernard Gillett solved it without a fall using roughly the same beta that Mark Tarrant and I had tried. Each of my tries has been met with an awkward, and presently unsuccessful, attempt to get established in the corner. I'm not sure that being tall is a critical advantage, although Bernard is 6' 5". His beta has not yet worked for me, and I'm not sure that reflects a difference in height so much as a difference in skill.
By Bernard Gillett
Aug 1, 2003

HA! I wish I were 6' 5"... I think I'm about 6-3, having lost a half an inch in the last 15 years. I might be getting close to 6-5 in my plastic boots, but I had standard rock shoes on when I did this route.

The variation is called MERIT BADGE (I'm pretty sure I checked with Richard about adding this name, and he said he liked it -- last call, Richard, to change the name before I get my guidebook finished!). I rated it 5.12d, and there's a 5.12b (5.12a?) crux after the initial puzzler at the roof. Bring a #2 Camalot to lead it. It joins GIT 'EM UP SCOUT at the sixth bolt (you might be able to clip the fifth bolt, but it'd cause rope drag; the climbing is easy by this point).

I initially led the route with a standard belay (and lots of hangs to figure things out), then came back to it 2 or 3 times by myself, plus one more try with a partner. The redpoint came on one of my rope solo days.

BETA that worked for me: get right foot on obvious hand hold over lip (off to the right), then snap right hand UNDER right leg. I'm not sure what this position is called, some kind of modified figure 4 (I think a figure 4 has the opposite leg cradled in an arm, and here you have your right leg draped over your right elbow), but it is the most bizzare sequence I've ever used in my life. Anyway, contorted as such, suck everything into the rock with your right arm, and let fly for the left wall of the dihedral with the left hand tips, aiming for a bit of extra texture (it's not much; some little bumps) -- this is where height may come into play. If the left hand finds purchase, spin it around to palm the bumps.Now push like hell (I was worried I might hyper-extend my left elbow) with left hand and right foot, and roll over the roof until you can stand up on the right foot -- somewhere in there you can remove the right arm from underneath the leg, and paw at a divot in the corner. There's some crucial left foot work in here as well -- you have to bump it up once or twice under the roof in order to make the reach out left, and it helps push your waist/ass over the lip.

If anyone repeats this, I'd appreciate some feedback on the rating. It's a boulder problem crux, and I hate bouldering, so I'm really not sure how hard it is.
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Aug 3, 2003

I'll defer completely to whatever Bernard thinks is right. Mark and I had it sussed pretty much as Bernard describes here, but were hanging in the opening. Even with his beta in hand, which he sent me shortly after freeing the move, I still failed to link it up. Once you get established in corner, it remains tricky but not outlandish. Bernard's opening is a bit outlandish and very inobvious. However, I haven't found anything else that works. It's kind of a nice little boulder problem. Merit Badge has a perplexing crux in an utterly safe environment. It's so easy to turn it into A0 without even intending to, however, even a wee bit of slack can make the case unambiguous. My unambiguous ascent is still A0. Perhaps at 5.12d, instead of some "big " number, we'll approach with a bit more certainty!!
By Crusty
Aug 4, 2003

I belayed one of Gillett's attempts on this route and I must say it is absolutely sick that he was able to rope solo this thing. I guess that's why we call him the Honemaster General. Kudos. It's A0 for me.
By Bernard Gillett
Aug 4, 2003

To clarify: I said I hate bouldering, and that's why it's hard for me to rate this route. I didn't mean to imply that I hate Merit Badge. Richard said: "It's kind of a nice little boulder problem," and I concur. The entire route is pretty cool, though I'd give it only one star as it's short with some scaley rock (the crux is a gas).

Crusty!? -- what the hell are you doing spraying that ancient nickname around in public?!? I'm going to defer to better judgment and keep YOUR moniker between you, me, and the rest of our defunct gang (hint: it isn't Crusty; that's his tame nickname). Thanks for the belay -- you gonna stop working one of these days and climb with me soon? The original QHM has left the state as of last week, and the BGCS has a vacant post to fill. (Apologies to all for the inside joke, but it will bring a nostalgic smile to Crusty's face).
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 5, 2003

Hi,I am trying to grow a Longmont centric climbing group:

Join our discussion group:

groups.yahoo.com/group/longmon...

Why rope solo 5.12d when you can climb it for real? If you're in need of a belay slave or want to slave, email us.

This is our current group charter: Network of people who may live or may work in or near Longmont and want to climb rocks close to Longmont in the evening during the week and other times or at other places for that matter, wait is that everyone?
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 5, 2003

Hey Paul, this sounds like a real keen group. Do you guys have a tree fort too? And do the groups members get to wear steel lined shoes and kick each other in the crotch? Man, I wish I lived in Longmont...

BTW, what's this got to do with this route?
By Bernard Gillett
Aug 5, 2003

Hi Paul - I tried to email you (via this site) when you posted the discussion group info a while ago, and it didn't work. Try emailing me, and if that doesn't work, I'm in the Longmont phone book.

"Why rope solo 5.12d when you can climb it for real?" Because it's better than climbing with the guy who wishes he lived in Longmont....
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 5, 2003

Hey, it's my net lurking buddy! I have not heard from you since the use fees thread...how the hell you doing?

You don't have to live in Longmont to get into the tree fort, but you got to be able to play well with others.

If your mom says it's ok, come on over!
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jun 12, 2008

Nice route. There is an alternative right start which adds a bit of value.

Bernard, that is called a figure-9. It's something used by mixed climbers, too...something you used to do. Much nicer to do without crampons, though. I'll have to go back and try it.
By Doug Redosh
Jun 12, 2008

Quality route for the grade, I thought 5.8. Well bolted. Not much road noise as opposed to most of the other climbs on Scout Rock that are right on the road.
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
May 1, 2013

Wow! I'm super impressed!! Stripping a moderate route because it can be done in another style makes such a macho statement: "ain't no room in my world for someone with less experience than me". I am so impressed!!!
By Greg Hand
From: Golden, CO
May 1, 2013

Does this mean Tony removed the bolts, or did he arrive and seeing no bolts, led it on gear? Richard, I can help you put the route back so that Gillett's guide does not mislead anyone.
By Bernard Gillett
May 2, 2013

I'm thinking it would be wise to talk to the homeowner just west of Scout Slab before reinstalling the bolts. As noted in my guide, it is my understanding that Scout Slab lies within the boundaries of the aforementioned homeowner's property. I don't know who is responsible for the removal of the bolts, though I very much doubt Tony had anything to do with it (they've been gone for over two years, as reported by MP user Clare Shemeta in April of 2011). In the event that the home owner removed them, I suspect it would be a bad public relations move to reinstall the route without permission.

I'd provide contact information if I had it, but I don't. When I was carrying out research for my guidebook, I just rang the doorbell one day and talked to the landowner. I don't recall whether I even learned his name that day, only that his property stretches into the creek bed separating Scout Slab from Scout Rock, and that at that time--this would be around 2007(?)--the landowner was tolerating the climbers he witnessed on a regular basis in that corner of his property.
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
May 3, 2013

Thanks for thinking about this, Greg. I've known Tony for a million years, and I guarantee that he had nothing to do with chopping. If Bernard is right in his inference, then I'm not sure what to do. It remains a tad odd that an owner would leave a starting bolt in place but remove all the slab bolts. In the end, the bolts are considered abandoned property, and it's probably not worth getting too worked up about it. In addition, when I do get back on my feet, I will have significantly greater objectives in need of attention. Furthermore, if bolts could be restored, I'd love to see Bernard's start turned into a lead. It is a cool and very hard sequence.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 3, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Quoth Greg Hand:
"Does this mean Tony removed the bolts, or did he arrive and seeing no bolts, led it on gear? Richard, I can help you put the route back so that Gillett's guide does not mislead anyone."

Greg,

Why on earth would anyone such as yourself address anybody other than me with that first question??? So obviously asking someone other than me to speculate about what I did or did not do is silliness. I only came back to this thread after someone told me it was here and suggested that I should address this question.

Hey everyone else,
'Does this mean that Greg wanted to infer something without asking?'
In all seriousness....

As for any inferences about *my* situation or motivation... You've got my Email and got the PM link here and didn't ask? I have never been anything less than honest with you about anything. You have heard me say I don't like particular bolts publicly, and others I just say are not needed but don't give 2 shakes about, and I don't mind. I've lead PLENTY of bolted routes on gear. Sorry if you are still sore over the discussion we had about one of your lines (G.F.). It was an opinion that I was honest about. I was not intending to offend you, and I thought it would be way worse to own and represent an opinion quietly and behind your back than to tell you. It's not personal. Frankly, I could see that you were, but I couldn't see my way through to reversing my opinion just because you didn't like it, or silencing it for that reason either. The hand that looses the pen wields the sword. I simply render opinions, which I think I am entitled to.

Other than that, what do you know of me ever removing bolts? Seems nothing other than hearsay which is almost always wrong. The only person that can tell you a TRUE story about me removing bolts from a line is Richard Wright. It was his line from which I removed a few a decade ago, and you saw what he had to say about that:

"I've known Tony for a million years, and I guarantee that he had nothing to do with chopping." (Thanks Richard, and BTW - correct.)

The two guys that know me best here and have climbed with me plenty (Richard and Bernard) nailed it first time around. Has nothing to do with me. Don't shoot the messenger.

As for what did happen:
I started up the route, seeing #1 with nothing but draws. Then I saw sleeve #2 and #3, but saw it took gear and asked Chris to toss me a few cams, which he did. The gear was good. Then I looked up further and saw #4 and #5 and saw a lack of gear and asked Chris to send me up the rack on a bite of rope I lowered from the ledge at 30' up. And then I ran it out to a second ledge and dicey gear prior to the crux... then finished.

Richard et al,
Several possibilities occur to me as for why someone might have done this, but ego wasn't one of them that immediately occurred to me. The first bolt is by very good gear and is still there. #5-7 are dangerously runout and scarey, but were striped. Odd, that choice were the gear thing to be someone's axe to grind. If that were it, they both left the "wrong" bolt and took the "wrong" bolts.
HOWEVER, it seems to me that only #1 would have been hard to get on rap. So I'd guess that they did it on rap, then cleared the top anchors later. Also, the bottom bolt/hanger looked brand-spankin-new and the sleeves on the others were not looking so great, perhaps as they have probably been holding moisture for 2+ years or however long it has been since someone took them out. So I wondered if the bottom bolt was a new one replaced from a low secure stance, but that the others were not.

It also occurs to me that this is the only top anchor in the area that high, where-from the view, noise-range and walk off come into the general property as opposed to limited within the secluded/quiet canyon. So that makes me think that the land owner would have some particular motivation to remove them there. Also, the other anchor is not accessible to a hiker to rap off from... but this one is. And remember that the only bolt NOT removed is the one you could not get on rap, but would be easiest to get while climbing in a good stance. Makes me think that a non-climber might have done it.

Who knows why though??? Not me. I could go talk to the landowner myself, I suppose. I'm comfortable doing it, but perhaps Bernard might be the better choice to do so since he's done so before. If Bernard feels like this would be pestering on his part, then I'm happy to do it and report back here when I find out.
By Greg Hand
From: Golden, CO
May 3, 2013

Tony,

The way Richard made his post sounded like he inferred you had removed the bolts. I did not think you would, thus I posed the possibility that you arrived and saw no bolts and led the route on gear. Which is what has happened. Sorry you took it the wrong way. From Bernard's post, it appears the removal was done years ago and the rock is on private property. I would not bother to replace bolts on private property.
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
May 3, 2013

N.B.: Leo Paik has expressed the same idea as Bernard, so this may in fact be the end of it. However, it can't hurt to find out.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 6, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Greg,
Yeah, sounds like I misunderstood your intent there... prompted by the wonder at why you didn't just ask me. I'll admit to being very, very under-slept that day and a bit sick, so I was grumpy. Sorry if it made you the target of an unnecessary rant.
By Greg Hand
From: Golden, CO
May 6, 2013

Thanks Tony. I probably should have email you. Get more sleep. Maybe you need to retire. It does wonders.