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 ADVANCED
Mt Stuart
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cascadian Couloir 
Direct North Ridge w/ Gendarme, The T 
Girth Pillar 
Gorillas in the Mist T 
Ice Cliff Glacier 
Ingalls Peak, East Ridge T 
Ingalls Peak, South Ridge T 
Sherpa Glacier 
South Headwall T 
Stuart Glacier Couloir T 
Upper North Ridge w/Great Gendarme T 
West Ridge T 

Girth Pillar 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a WI2 Steep Snow

   
Type:  Ice, Snow, 9415', Grade V
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c WI2 [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,998
Submitted By: Jens K. on Jun 29, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Flick topping out the Girth Pillar.

Description 

Crux is the three pitches found on the pillar itself.

Location 

Found on the Northeast face, high above the ice cliff glacier.

Protection 

Ice Gear, rock rack to 3"


Photos of Girth Pillar Slideshow Add Photo
The pillar is the brighter colored rock in the sun...
BETA PHOTO: The pillar is the brighter colored rock in the sun...
Me following the splitter cracks of the Girth Pill...
Me following the splitter cracks of the Girth Pill...
Chris Martin firing the first pitch of the Girth P...
Chris Martin firing the first pitch of the Girth P...
Jens Holsten crossing the Ice Cliff Glacier
Jens Holsten crossing the Ice Cliff Glacier
Kyle Flick on the lower north ridge of Stuart, get...
Kyle Flick on the lower north ridge of Stuart, get...
Large crevasse on the upper Ice Cliff Glacier.
Large crevasse on the upper Ice Cliff Glacier.
The access ramp to the upper Ice Cliff Glacier fro...
BETA PHOTO: The access ramp to the upper Ice Cliff Glacier fro...
Kyle Flick following pitch 2, Girth Pillar.
Kyle Flick following pitch 2, Girth Pillar.
Chris Martin making his way to the Pillar, which c...
Chris Martin making his way to the Pillar, which c...
The view from near the top of Stuart.
The view from near the top of Stuart.

Comments on Girth Pillar Add Comment
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By peachy spohn
Jul 9, 2009

I think this post could use a little more information???
By Shaun Johnson
Aug 19, 2013
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c WI2 Steep Snow

Anyone planning on climbing the Girth Pillar in the middle or late summer should consider climbing the Lower North Ridge to a large ledge system that leads to the surface of the Ice Cliff Glacier.

This adds more climbing on perfect rock and avoids the often rotten ICG climbing.
By Laurel Fan
Sep 10, 2013
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b WI1 Mod. Snow

For details on the Lower North Ridge variation and the "new" way up the Girth (rockfall has affected the route since the FA), check out Kevin Newell and Eric Wehrly's TR from 2007:

alpineinstitute.com/articles/t...
By Jplotz
From: Wenatchee, WA
Oct 31, 2013

The lower north ridge approach to the ice cliff glacier, though not the style of the first ascentionists, is a worthy alternative and safer if later in the season (July forwards generally).

Pitches on the Girth Pillar are obvious and were unaffected by the rockfall.
Pitch 1: Climb the nice but immediately steep handcrack, which jogs right at the top of the crack. Belay on a crappy, tiny ledge.

Pitch 2: Shuffle straight left for about 10 feet to a thin crack. Finger jams lead to a good rest right before the crux. Jam the crack as it shoots out right on decent fingerlocks. There was a fixed stopper mid-crux that made life easier. Continue up the thin hands then hand crack to a better belay ledge.

Pitch 3: Perfect hands on very steep and somewhat dirty rock lead to the top of the pillar. Beware of some very, very large loose blocks.

Pitches 4 - 6?: Mid-5th climbing will lead to the crest just below the false summit of Stuart.

Full-value climbing!
By Laurel Fan
May 30, 2014
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b WI1 Mod. Snow

Ah, I just figured the route changed because the route description for the 3 pillar pitches and the 11c rating in Nelson didn't make any sense to me.