|Stuart Range and Vicinity
Crux is the three pitches found on the pillar itself.
Found on the Northeast face, high above the ice cliff glacier.
Ice Gear, rock rack to 3"
BETA PHOTO: The pillar is the brighter colored rock in the sun...
Me following the splitter cracks of the Girth Pill...
Chris Martin firing the first pitch of the Girth P...
Jens Holsten crossing the Ice Cliff Glacier
Kyle Flick on the lower north ridge of Stuart, get...
Large crevasse on the upper Ice Cliff Glacier.
BETA PHOTO: The access ramp to the upper Ice Cliff Glacier fro...
Kyle Flick following pitch 2, Girth Pillar.
Chris Martin making his way to the Pillar, which c...
The view from near the top of Stuart.
|By peachy spohn|
Jul 9, 2009
I think this post could use a little more information???
|By Shaun Johnson|
Aug 19, 2013
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c WI2 Steep Snow
Anyone planning on climbing the Girth Pillar in the middle or late summer should consider climbing the Lower North Ridge to a large ledge system that leads to the surface of the Ice Cliff Glacier.
This adds more climbing on perfect rock and avoids the often rotten ICG climbing.
From: Wenatchee, WA
Oct 31, 2013
The lower north ridge approach to the ice cliff glacier, though not the style of the first ascentionists, is a worthy alternative and safer if later in the season (July forwards generally).
Pitches on the Girth Pillar are obvious and were unaffected by the rockfall.
Pitch 1: Climb the nice but immediately steep handcrack, which jogs right at the top of the crack. Belay on a crappy, tiny ledge.
Pitch 2: Shuffle straight left for about 10 feet to a thin crack. Finger jams lead to a good rest right before the crux. Jam the crack as it shoots out right on decent fingerlocks. There was a fixed stopper mid-crux that made life easier. Continue up the thin hands then hand crack to a better belay ledge.
Pitch 3: Perfect hands on very steep and somewhat dirty rock lead to the top of the pillar. Beware of some very, very large loose blocks.
Pitches 4 - 6?: Mid-5th climbing will lead to the crest just below the false summit of Stuart.