|Southern Dinosaur Egg
This is a short, more-challenging TR on the W side of Southern Dinosaur Egg. It is perhaps 45 ft. If you're there, it may be worth the effort. It can be TR'ed from the same anchor as for Left Side & Coming Attractions. It lies below Sneak Preview. The painful crimps and lichen suggest little, if any, prior traffic.
To approach, consider the Mesa Trail to the Bear Canyon trail. Bushwhacking up the Bear Canyon drainage past Bear Creek Spire is slightly tedious and a fair amount of poison ivy lives down there. Go to Stonehenge (with Thought Control) and angle back E toward Southern Dinosaur Egg.
Begin a few feet down and R of Coming Attractions. Lieback/shuffle feet up to a bucket. Stem R. Work up along a R-angling overlap/crack with power/balance moves to a slab rest above. Move slightly L, use a knob on an arÍte for your L foot and reach high to a jug. 1.48 stars. You can also finish as for the top of Coming Attractions. To descend, you can downclimb 3rd or 4th class rock to the L.
After doing Coming Attractions, rated 5.10d in Rossiter's Flatirons guide, this seemed a bit more challenging, hence the 5.11a rating. You be the judge. Yes, it could be led but it would be s/vs.
You may be able to put in a finger size cam to start, then to loop a horn, then possibly a off-fingers sized cam, then, you can cross over to the 3rd bolt of Coming Attractions, then fire for the top.
|By Doug Redosh|
Apr 19, 2004
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c
Good TR, but leading it would get an s rating, IMHO