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> Freak Brothers Dome
Girdle Crossing
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3 from 3
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Routes in Freak Brothers Dome
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Fat Freddie's Escape T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Girdle Crossing T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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I Can't Believe It's a Girdle T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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I Can't Believe it's a Sandbag T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Safe Muffins T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Zap #4 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
| FA: | Jack Marshall and Don Wilson, November 1988 |
| Page Views: | 1,476 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Randy on Dec 31, 2002 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Scramble up to the upper right end of a large fallen block below (and once part of) the large roof on the middle formation.
Cruxy face (5.10c/d) past 2 bolts (1st may be doubled) next to an arete lead to the dike of I Can't Believe Its A Girdle. Head left (clip 3 bolts; but maybe unclip the 1st and runner the 2nd). Then head straight up on classic Josh friction (5.10c) past 3 more bolts to a 2 bolt belay.
Though you can rap from here with 2 ropes, the rope drag (pulling the ropes) can be pretty bad.
Cruxy face (5.10c/d) past 2 bolts (1st may be doubled) next to an arete lead to the dike of I Can't Believe Its A Girdle. Head left (clip 3 bolts; but maybe unclip the 1st and runner the 2nd). Then head straight up on classic Josh friction (5.10c) past 3 more bolts to a 2 bolt belay.
Though you can rap from here with 2 ropes, the rope drag (pulling the ropes) can be pretty bad.
Protection
8 bolts (1st bolt may be doubled) protect this route; 3 of which are actually on the 3rd pitch of I Can't Believe Its A Girdle. If you clip all the bolts and/or do not put longer runners on some, hideous rope drag will curse your ascent.
Pro is good, but some people get intimidated by the mantle/high step onto the dike above the 2nd bolt.
Pro is good, but some people get intimidated by the mantle/high step onto the dike above the 2nd bolt.
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