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Ginsu Flake 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Michael Hartrich and Matt Peer
Page Views: 851
Submitted By: M Sprague on May 4, 2010
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BETA PHOTO: Ginsu Flake - stitched photo so it is foreshorten...

Description 

Maybe 30 feet to the right of the approach trail, just past Greenpeace, is a fun looking, sparsely bolted left leaning thin flake that goes part way up the wall. Layback and jamb up the flake, trying to avoid getting too pumped. After the last bolt, look to escape right and up to the anchors; two new bolts with biners.

Justin Preisendorfer kindly sent this information: "Tim and I put 3 bolts in the flake by hand on the lead but didn't have the right size pins to leave an anchor. You can easily downclimb to the right at easy fifth class to get off without leaving gear though it would be nice to have an anchor there. A couple years after we bolted that line I learned from Matt Peer that he and Hartrich had climbed it 20 years earlier. We talked about the bolts and decided to leave them because one fall on a cam would definitely blast the flake to bits. Hartrich has balls of steel."


Protection 

a handful of bolts and standard rack. Two #4 Camalots are handy, but you can leap frog if you have only one. Tread carefully on the flake.

There is a new c2010 bolted anchor at the top.



Photos of Ginsu Flake Slideshow Add Photo
Green Mountain Boys replacing the anchor on the Ginsu Flake
Green Mountain Boys replacing the anchor on the Gi...
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By john strand
From: southern colo
May 5, 2010

"Less slabby than it looks" - Just like all the rest of the cliff !! I got no idea Mark

By David Powers
Aug 23, 2010

Nice climbing on a fragile flake. Bolts are spaced with groundfall potential so bring a number 4 camalot for "mental" protection, just don't fall on it. I placed a two bolt anchor at the top because this route deserved more than a bushy 5.3 down climb. The previous belay was nuts in a poor flake.

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Aug 23, 2010

I agree that the anchors were warranted. Thanks for doing the job.

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Sep 9, 2010

a fun route. I would give it three stars if it was just a little longer. Look for footholds. There are more there than you might first notice