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Routes in The Main Wall
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"Con" Savage T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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(I Just Want to Make a) Volcano T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Arch Duke Dude, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Black Flies Consume Jim Dunn T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Blurry Eyes T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bull Run T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bull run direct T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Chartreuse S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Cracks to El Dorado, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Dead rat tat T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dry Run T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Eco-Challenge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Enabler, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fireside Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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First Impressions T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Gift, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Ginsu Flake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Global Warming T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Green Party T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Green Thumb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A0 |
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Greenpeace T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Hippy Bus T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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House Made of Dawn S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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I'm Still Here T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Jet Set S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Moldy Bolts T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Muffin Man T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Nero's Fiddle T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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PTS Crack (The Patridge Town Send) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Remember Me T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Snaking the Drain S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Stewart's Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Strands un Dunn T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Super Cool T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Trusting the Rubber S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Michael Hartrich and Matt Peer |
| Page Views: | 2,732 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | M Sprague on May 4, 2010 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Description
About in the middle of the cliff, just right of Greenpeace, is a fun looking, sparsely bolted left leaning thin flake that goes part way up the wall. Layback and jam up the flake, trying to avoid getting too pumped. After the last bolt, look to escape right and up to the anchors; two bolts with biners. (Have a good look at the anchor. Last I saw the bolts were getting loose)
Justin Preisendorfer kindly sent this information: "Tim and I put 3 bolts in the flake by hand on the lead but didn't have the right size pins to leave an anchor. You can easily down climb to the right at easy fifth class to get off without leaving gear though it would be nice to have an anchor there. A couple years after we bolted that line I learned from Matt Peer that he and Hartrich had climbed it 20 years earlier. We talked about the bolts and decided to leave them because one fall on a cam would definitely blast the flake to bits. Hartrich has balls of steel."
Protection
3 bolts and a small rack, #4 Camolot or two for between the bolts, but you don't really want to fall on them. Two #4 Camalots are handy, but you can leap frog it after the first bolt if you have only one. For above, a cam or two around #1 size Tread carefully on the flake.
There is a new c2010 bolted top anchor.
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