Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
The Main Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black Flies Consume Jim Dunn T 
Blurry Eyes T 
Bull Run T 
Fireside Crack T 
Gift, The T 
Ginsu Flake T 
Green Party T 
Green Thumb T 
Greenpeace T 
Hippy Bus T 
House Made of Dawn S 
I'm Still Here T 
Moldy Bolts T 
Muffin Man, The T 
Remember Me T 
Stewart's Crack T 

Ginsu Flake 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Michael Hartrich and Matt Peer
Page Views: 1,143
Submitted By: M Sprague on May 4, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Ginsu Flake - stitched photo so it is foreshorten...


About in the middle of the cliff, just right of Greenpeace, is a fun looking, sparsely bolted left leaning thin flake that goes part way up the wall. Layback and jamb up the flake, trying to avoid getting too pumped. After the last bolt, look to escape right and up to the anchors; two new bolts with biners.

Justin Preisendorfer kindly sent this information: "Tim and I put 3 bolts in the flake by hand on the lead but didn't have the right size pins to leave an anchor. You can easily downclimb to the right at easy fifth class to get off without leaving gear though it would be nice to have an anchor there. A couple years after we bolted that line I learned from Matt Peer that he and Hartrich had climbed it 20 years earlier. We talked about the bolts and decided to leave them because one fall on a cam would definitely blast the flake to bits. Hartrich has balls of steel."


a handful of bolts and standard rack. Two #4 Camalots are handy, but you can leap frog if you have only one. Tread carefully on the flake.

There is a new c2010 bolted anchor at the top.

Photos of Ginsu Flake Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Green Mountain Boys replacing the anchor on the Gi...
Green Mountain Boys replacing the anchor on the Gi...

Comments on Ginsu Flake Add Comment
Show which comments
By john strand
From: southern colo
May 5, 2010

"Less slabby than it looks" - Just like all the rest of the cliff !! I got no idea Mark
By David Powers
Aug 23, 2010

Nice climbing on a fragile flake. Bolts are spaced with groundfall potential so bring a number 4 camalot for "mental" protection, just don't fall on it. I placed a two bolt anchor at the top because this route deserved more than a bushy 5.3 down climb. The previous belay was nuts in a poor flake.
By M Sprague
From: New England
Aug 23, 2010

I agree that the anchors were warranted. Thanks for doing the job.
By M Sprague
From: New England
Sep 9, 2010

a fun route. I would give it three stars if it was just a little longer. Look for footholds. There are more there than you might first notice

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!