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Ginseng is perhaps the best route at Shagg. It's pretty much the perfect endurance test (for the Northeast). Start off a pile of boulders left of the obvious right-angling weakness of The Great Escape (10d).
The first half of the route climbs up a beautiful pane of Shagg's trademark fine-grained granite. Unlike granite elsewhere in the area, this rock forms into perfect horizontal slots that make for good, if a bit slopey, handholds. A few taxing moves take you to a break. This is where the cliff changes to schist and the angle kicks back even more.
The schist is a bit reminiscent of the rock at Orange Crush at Rumney and offers interesting big flake/sidepull features. Like all good endurance routes, a tough move guards the anchors.
Chadwick sticking one of the hard moves.
BETA PHOTO: Falling at the crux.
BETA PHOTO: Cutting feet isn't necessary, but it is stylish.
Joe Terravecchia on Ginseng.
P Cole photo.1998
And so it begins... Dan R. starts up Ginseng Route...
|Comments on Ginseng Route
Jan 9, 2010
A great extension of this route is to put a long draw on the anchor and cut climber right along the flake to the fat lady anchor and then finish on Fat Pig. Very awesome climbing, 5.13a.