Ginseng is perhaps the best route at Shagg. It's pretty much the perfect endurance test (for the Northeast). Start off a pile of boulders left of the obvious right-angling weakness of The Great Escape (10d).
The first half of the route climbs up a beautiful pane of Shagg's trademark fine-grained granite. Unlike granite elsewhere in the area, this rock forms into perfect horizontal slots that make for good, if a bit slopey, handholds. A few taxing moves take you to a break. This is where the cliff changes to schist and the angle kicks back even more.
The schist is a bit reminiscent of the rock at Orange Crush at Rumney and offers interesting big flake/sidepull features. Like all good endurance routes, a tough move guards the anchors.
Jan 9, 2010
A great extension of this route is to put a long draw on the anchor and cut climber right along the flake to the fat lady anchor and then finish on Fat Pig. Very awesome climbing, 5.13a.
|By Steven James|
From: Portland, Maine
May 16, 2014
Ginseng is the first 5.12 I sent. The moves are fun, and it seems like nearly every piece of the route has different beta that can work for anyone.
This route is just too fun. If you are a wannabe 5.12 climber and you don't get on Ginseng when you visit Shagg, you've missed out.
P.S. The move typically considered the crux has wrecked more than two shoulders. I found that my shoulder was really upset if my feet were too low.