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Shirt Tail Peak
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Can't Find My Way Home T 
Cro-Magnon aka The Tail T 
Destruction T 
Double Life T 
Emperor's New Shoes, The T 
Future Primitive T 
Gambit T 
Ginseng Junkie T 
Giuoco Piano Direct T 
King Of Pain T,S,TR 
Missing Link T 
Moriarty's Mistake T 
Moriarty's Revenge T 
Mountaineer's Route T 
Mrs. Clean Gets Down T,S,TR 
Serrated Jam Crack T 
Throne, The T,S 
Tiger Balm Arete T 
Windlass or 'The Tail' T 

Ginseng Junkie 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter and Linda Willing, 1979
Page Views: 1,348
Submitted By: Matt Robertson on Dec 8, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Already a hand on the jug.
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  • Description 

    Another short pitch on the "Tour of 5.10 Variations to Gambit," this one improves slightly over Missing Link on quality. From the big ledge above Missing Link (or the top of the dihedral pitch of Gambit), belay near a pine tree. Work up a short, bulging, triangular corner with a fist crack (briefly 5.9) to another ledge, step right to a steep dihedral, and ascend a nice finger crack to a larger ledge (Yosemite Ledge).

    From the belay on Yosemite Ledge, continue straight up easier cracks overhead, or, perhaps better, traverse to the left margin of the massive Shirttail face, and join the spectacular summit pitch of Tiger Balm Arete.


    Protection 

    Eldo gear to a #1 Camalot, plus a #3.5 or 4 Camalot for a short fist crack below the crux.



    Photos of Ginseng Junkie Slideshow Add Photo
    Clint working up the 5.9 corner past the pine tree belay.
    Clint working up the 5.9 corner past the pine tree...
    Face climbing around the crack.
    Face climbing around the crack.
    Ginseng Junkie (5.10a) via Gambit, to Tiger Balm Arete
    BETA PHOTO: Ginseng Junkie (5.10a) via Gambit, to Tiger Balm A...
    Comments on Ginseng Junkie Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By George Bell
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jan 10, 2002

    This one move wonder is pretty easy for 5.10, it seems a lot of folks climb it thinking they are still on Gambit. A worthwhile variation in any case.

    By Graham Rogers
    Mar 16, 2003

    Did this yesterday on that fine 75 degree day. Agreed, this felt soft for Eldo 10a because you are through the crux to a nice jug so quickly.I'd think tall people may never find the crux, or for them this could be called a half-move wonder...or one-third move.Still a satisfying move, no matter. We definitely enjoyed the finish continuing after the crux left, as suggested, on Tiger Balm arete; so airy, sooo nice!

    By Bryson Slothower
    Apr 12, 2003

    Last pitch has spectacular exposure but the rock quality leaves a bit to be desired, climb carefully.

    By Brian Aitken
    Apr 6, 2008

    From a follower's perspective, the grade may be a bit contrived because the moves are over with so quickly... but the leader may feel much differently.

    Great variation to Gambit.

    By Kyle Kunkle
    Apr 21, 2009

    The jug at the crux felt a bit loose to me. I'm a bigger guys and not a very good climber (lots of weight on my hands) but I'm sure I heard a little cracking. Be safe and have fun.

    By Erik W
    From: Bay Area, CA
    Apr 23, 2009

    With a 60m rope you can summit in one pitch from the top of P2 on Gambit (making for a stellar 2 pitch climb of Shirt Tail Peak). Crux felt more like 5.9/5.9+ than a typical Eldo 10a. We took the first traverse after the crux to meet up with the Tiger Balm Arete and followed it straight to the top. Bring plenty of shoulder length slings to keep rope drag manageable. Highly recommended.

    By Richard Radcliffe
    From: Louisville, CO
    Dec 20, 2009

    Is it possible that an important foothold has broken off at mid-crux? Maybe I'm going crazy, but the left foot seen in the "Already a hand on the jug" photo just wasn't there. That little bit seemed a lot harder than 5.9 to both me and my partner, especially if the "...5.9 corner past the pine tree..." (Clint) is really 5.9 (which felt more like 5.7-5.8 at most).

    I humbly suggest that the crux section of GJ is now solid 11.

    By mtoensing
    From: Boulder
    May 21, 2012
    rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

    Hmmm... Richard, you haven't climbed too many Eldo 5.11s have you? The crux may have lost a foothold, but there are plenty of others to use. The gear is great at this "5.10a" section, and I don't even think that it qualifies as 10a. A competent Eldo 5.9 leader could easily climb this route. That said though, I thoroughly enjoyed this route. The only this is the first pitch is too short. Also, you don't really need a wide piece for the first pitch (I'll call it 5.8). There is a solid nut placement at the base of the wide crack before the 5 ft of wide crack to the ledge. A 4 fits better than a 3, so if you only bring one wide piece, bring a 4.