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Broken Tooth
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YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unknown to me
Page Views: 434
Submitted By: Dave Holliday on Oct 18, 2009
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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70m rope will just get you to the ground from the ...


This two-pitch route is the corner just left of Broken Tooth. The first pitch is the worst I've climbed at Indian Creek. The rock is loose, hollow, and very sandy, and except for the first piece or two, most protection is dubious. The first pitch is rated 10- in the Bloom guidebook and that seemed about right. It would be good not to fall leading this pitch.

The second pitch ascends a thin-hands and hands size crack up a flake. The rock is quite solid and would even be a good one to push your limits.

I'd give the first pitch a bomb and the second three stars; one star overall.


The corner just left of Broken Tooth. Rappel from a bolted anchor. A 70m rope reaches the ground with a few feet to spare. A 60m rope may not reach so bring an extra rope just to be on the safe side.


A little of this and a little of that for the first pitch. The second pitch is all #1 and #2 Camalots. #3 Friends will also fit in a couple of places higher up on the second pitch. Each pitch is about sixty feet in length. The latest edition of the Bloom guidebook indicates that there's an intermediate anchor but we didn't see one.

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By Harald Swen
Apr 18, 2010

Really shitty and loose first pitch leeds to good second pitch. Definitely no intermediate belay. 65m rope will get you down. Worst climbing I did at the creek.

By Wylie
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 23, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

Worst climb! Come on, it's a great warm up and catches the sun early for those cold days. A little loose rock and weird thuggery makes the clean splitters that much better.

By Riley Jordan
From: USA
Dec 4, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

Bloom's guide book shows bolts at the top of the 1st pitch, no bolts but you can build an anchor or link pitches. 2nd pitch was fun.

By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jan 27, 2014

This climb is misplaced in the ordering list. Should be: right of Root Canal; left of Broken Tooth.

Although not listed in the book, the crack that forms the left side of the Gingivitis "pillar" and goes to the same anchor was pretty fun, 5.11- or so.