Gingers Don't Dance
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BETA PHOTO: biggest move in the problem, which may make it hei...
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Sit start with a good hold low and left, and super cool positive three finger hold on the arete, stand up to a sharp half pad side pull above your left hand, follow suit with your right hand, then find a way to the huge ledge slightly below the top. Top out can be sketchy and dirty, but the top corner is good, and theres an exposed root to assist. or you can just jump back down
(may be height dependent, I`m 6'1" and probly have another 4-5" before im fully extended on the biggest move.)
from main entrance over gaurd rail, turn left at the first boulder you pass with obvious chalk on it (anyone know who put up this hard problem??), go to the back of it and in the distance to your left you`ll see a fairly tall boulder with heavy lichen (and a humerous sign telling you to pack out your trash nailed to a tree). this is a popular party/camp spot thats fairly hidden given how close it is to the road.