Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Upper Spire
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arete Route T 
Beast of No Nation T 
Burnt Offerings T 
Char Broiled T 
Crispy Critters TR 
Desperado (Roof Variation) T 
Dot to Dot T 
Fear of Flying T 
Ginger Bread T 
Holy Smoke T 
Jugs Revisited T 
Lesbian Love S 
North Ridge T 
Robert's Aid Crack T 
Smokehouse Brown T 
Steppin' Stone T 
T-Bone S 
Thanksgiving T 
Up for Grabs T 

Ginger Bread 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: George Connor, Robert Oravetz, 1975.
Page Views: 4,377
Submitted By: Blitzo on Sep 10, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (83)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: "Ginger Bread". Photo by Blitzo.

Dirt road winter closures MORE INFO >>>


Starts left of "Fear Of Flying".
Take the righthand of two corners. Climb up, undercling right and climb a flake to it's top.
Climb a wide crack or the face to the left, using the crack for pro.
Can be done in one long pitch.
Rappel off back side, 80 Ft.


Pro to 4 inches.

Photos of Ginger Bread Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: one long pitch with awesome features
one long pitch with awesome features
Rock Climbing Photo: A view of the start of ginger bread
A view of the start of ginger bread
Rock Climbing Photo: Former Arizona climbing pal Monica says hello to S...
Former Arizona climbing pal Monica says hello to S...
Rock Climbing Photo: Brett beginning ginger bread.
Brett beginning ginger bread.

Comments on Ginger Bread Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 23, 2015
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Jul 4, 2007

Fun but spooky for 5.7, looks like that whole flake will be on the ground one of these days!
By Blitzo
Aug 24, 2010

This is a good 5.7.
Feb 11, 2011

Can I get away without a #4 on this route? Currently i only go up to a #3 C4 and a #9 hex. Thanks!
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Feb 11, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

You can get away without a #4, but if I recall, this will require you to runout the last pitch a bit (on the last pitch, you face climb to the left of a pretty wide crack that you stuff gear into). Others can correct me here, but if you are pushing your limit, you may want a wide piece.
By Daniel Trugman
From: La Jolla, CA
Feb 13, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

As Jay said, a 5.7 leader will want a #4. If you are willing to run it out a bit on ~5.7 , you'll be ok with the #3 and the hex, I think.
By Floyd Hayes
Sep 4, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I thought P1, especially the upper half, was just as good if not better than any 5.7 pitch at Lover's Leap, but it felt more like 5.8; P2 seemed much easier, more like 5.6. Two BD #4 cams are useful on each pitch (there is a fixed BD #4 cam in the middle of P1). Take along at least a half dozen slings, you'll want them for a short traverse and for gear placed deep in the wide crack.
By Brett Schooley
Apr 23, 2013

You can get away without a #4 camalot on the upper part of the first pitch by using a knob tieoff, a bomber number 10 hex, and two #3 camelots To (over)protect the upper crack drop a #10 hex, #3 camelot, knob tieoff, and a #4 camelot prior to topout
By Logan Swartz
From: Davis, CA
Jan 26, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

No need for a #4. #3s fit in the upper crack, p2, which is an awesome section!! The flake on the upper section of p1 eats #3s!! Had to do in two pitches since didn't have any #3s for the upper crack. Recommend to bring 3 #3s if you got them.
By Josh Cameron
From: Moab, Colorado
Jan 27, 2015
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I agree with caughtinside. The lower half of this route has flaky hollow sounding rock. And as far as the fun factor goes, it pales in comparison to it's next door neighbor Fear of Flying.
By wsperry
Jul 16, 2015

Did a cool variation for the second pitch,instead of climbing next to the wide crack, I traversed up and left to the corner slinging chickenheads the whole way. Nice and exposed, super fun.
By Demosthenic
From: El Cerrito
Nov 23, 2015

We left twin ropes on this route on 11/22/15 because it got caught or the knot pulled partially through the bolts and it got too dark. If it is retrieved, I would greatly appreciate its return (763.360.5843). I can tell you the colors of the rope.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!