Ginger Bread 5.7
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches |
| Consensus: | 5.7+ [details] |
| FA: | George Connor, Robert Oravetz, 1975. |
| Submitted By: | Blitzo on Sep 10, 2006 |
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BETA PHOTO: "Ginger Bread". Photo by Blitzo.
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Description Starts left of "Fear Of Flying". Take the righthand of two corners. Climb up, undercling right and climb a flake to it's top. Climb a wide crack or the face to the left, using the crack for pro. Can be done in one long pitch. Rappel off back side, 80 Ft.
Protection Pro to 4in.
A view of the start of ginger bread
| Brett beginning ginger bread.
| Former Arizona climbing pal Monica says hello to S...
| one long pitch with awesome features
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By caughtinside From: Oakland CA Jul 4, 2007
| Fun but spooky for 5.7, looks like that whole flake will be on the ground one of these days! |
By Blitzo Aug 24, 2010
| This is a good 5.7. |
By B RAD Feb 11, 2011
| Can I get away without a #4 on this route? Currently i only go up to a #3 C4 and a #9 hex. Thanks! |
By J. Albers From: Colorado Feb 11, 2011 rating: 5.7
| You can get away without a #4, but if I recall, this will require you to runout the last pitch a bit (on the last pitch, you face climb to the left of a pretty wide crack that you stuff gear into). Others can correct me here, but if you are pushing your limit, you may want a wide piece. |
By Daniel Trugman From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA Feb 13, 2011 rating: 5.7
| As Jay said, a 5.7 leader will want a #4. If you are willing to run it out a bit on ~5.7 , you'll be ok with the #3 and the hex, I think. |
By Floyd Hayes Sep 4, 2011 rating: 5.8
| I thought P1, especially the upper half, was just as good if not better than any 5.7 pitch at Lover's Leap, but it felt more like 5.8; P2 seemed much easier, more like 5.6. Two BD #4 cams are useful on each pitch (there is a fixed BD #4 cam in the middle of P1). Take along at least a half dozen slings, you'll want them for a short traverse and for gear placed deep in the wide crack. |
By Brett Schooley Apr 23, 2013
| You can get away without a #4 camalot on the upper part of the first pitch by using a knob tieoff, a bomber number 10 hex, and two #3 camelots To (over)protect the upper crack drop a #10 hex, #3 camelot, knob tieoff, and a #4 camelot prior to topout |
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