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Gin and Tectonics
5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3.5 from 11
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Routes in Gin & Tectonics
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Alien's Head, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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ArcWidth, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Gin and Tectonics T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Head Stack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Nightwalker T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C1+ |
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Peccadillo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Squiggly Line, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Triple Abyss T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Two Plumb T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Brett and Stuart Ruckman |
| Page Views: | 2,336 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | charley graham on Nov 8, 2009 · Updates |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Sheep Aware
Details
Long canyon serves as important habitat for Utah's only endemic herd of Desert Bighorn Sheep. Please be respectful of wild sheep and other wildlife by maintaining a quiet atmosphere and keeping at least 100 meters from animals. Desert Bighorn Sheep are especially sensitive to disturbance between April 1st - June 15th when they are raising their young. Consider limiting your disturbance during this time period by climbing in other areas. You may notice water catchment systems in strategic locations to provide water for wildlife in Long canyon. One of these exists near the trail to Maverick Buttress.
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Legend has it that the Ruckman Bros felt this was one of the best desert lines they put up. I like all their routes but this one is special, on par with their other multi-pitch mega-classic, pistol whipped.
pitch 1: Widening right facing corner, fingers to hands with a ton of the latter. 5.11, 140 ft.
pitch 2: From the belay, traverse right to a drilled angle and the face-climbing crux of the route. Afterwards, negotiate a long pumpy right facing corner of all sizes and belay below the squeeze chimney. 5.11+, 140 ft.
pitch 3: Squeeze through the chimney and up the steep big hands finish to the top. 5.10, 120 ft.
pitch 1: Widening right facing corner, fingers to hands with a ton of the latter. 5.11, 140 ft.
pitch 2: From the belay, traverse right to a drilled angle and the face-climbing crux of the route. Afterwards, negotiate a long pumpy right facing corner of all sizes and belay below the squeeze chimney. 5.11+, 140 ft.
pitch 3: Squeeze through the chimney and up the steep big hands finish to the top. 5.10, 120 ft.
Location
On the sunny side of Long Canyon. Approach via the final break in the Chinle cliffs below the Wingate before the road bends right and begins the switchbacks up to Maverick buttress. This talus slog delivers you to a point slightly to the right of G and T. So walk left along the base of the cliff 5 minutes to a very striking off-width splitter that goes for 200ft. on the outside of a large pillar. G and T is the first right facing corner to the right of the offwidth. There is a plaque at the base of the climb, which begins off of a ledge, 60 ft. off the ground. Scramble onto the ledge on its right side.
Descend via the next route to the climbers right (about 15 ft. along the rim) which has much newer rappel rings than G and T.
Descend via the next route to the climbers right (about 15 ft. along the rim) which has much newer rappel rings than G and T.
Protection
A fairly large rack. Triples from tips to wide hands and singles of the bigger stuff including a #6 friend or camalot unless you are of the opinion that 5.10 squeeze is easier without a cam in the way. Also, the first pitch can swallow lots of #2 camalots, there is probably 60-80 ft of hands.
Photos
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