Gin and Juice
||Mixed, Ice, 130'
|Consensus: ||WI4 M5 [details]|
|FA: ||12/19/10: Jim Lawyer, Martin Von Arx|
|Page Views: ||196|
|Submitted By: ||Jim Lawyer on Mar 1, 2013|
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Gin and Juice, McMartin Cliff.
Super excellent line with adequate protection. The route bakes off later in the season and will be completely devoid of ice.
P1 M5 WI4: Go up the shallow chimney (runout, but not hard) to a roof. Around this on the left to a second roof. Go left 6' and enter a squeeze chimney. Exhale and squirm up the bowels of the mountain with increasing tightness to the top. 130'
Descent: Rappel from trees 20' right, 110' to ground.
Begin 70' left and downhill from the height of land below a shallow chimney that runs the full height of the cliff.
Rock gear to 3", maybe a couple screws too.