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Dragon Arch
Routes Sorted
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Dragon Arch T 
Enter the Dragon T 
Gimme Danger T 
Hairstyles and Attitudes T 
Last Shout T 
Lunar Tick S 
Ralph, Herb, Bert, and Ernie T 
Rodeo Girls in Bondage T 
Toymakers Dream T 
Two Heads Are Better Than One T 
Valentine Crack T 

Gimme Danger 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Andy Ross & Shingo Ohkawa (alt leads)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,670
Submitted By: apross on Nov 4, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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First pitch.
Valentine crack to the left.

Description 

Pitch 1. Climb the first 10ft of Valentine Crack then move right into V groove. Up this then right again past a bolt. Carry on up cracks to just below the top where instead of the wide gravel chimney, finish left and up the easy groove. 5.10 110ft

Pitch 2. Layback and undercling the right facing/curving corner. 5.10+ 70ft

Location 

Starts as for Valentine Crack.
The rap off is a rope strecher with a 60m, watch for the ends of the rope.
Great belay ledge hang.

Protection 

Pitch 1. Standard rack with extra small/med nuts
Pitch 2. Metolius red, yellow, small nuts/peenuts, blue, bolts.


Photos of Gimme Danger Slideshow Add Photo
Nearly there, don't fall now.
Nearly there, don't fall now.
Near the top, first pitch.
Near the top, first pitch.
Gimme Danger
BETA PHOTO: Gimme Danger
Pitch two
Pitch two
The view on the way down from the crag. <br />Climber topping out on Mexican crack. <br />
The view on the way down from the crag.
Climber to...
Underclinging like a madman
Underclinging like a madman
View from top. Lower angle than this pic suggests
View from top. Lower angle than this pic suggests

Comments on Gimme Danger Add Comment
Show which comments
By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Nov 6, 2009

awesome. thanks for the work!
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Nov 20, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

The first pitch is pretty stout, lots of insecure lieback moves on the gritty slab with few rest opportunities. Bring a healthy supply of small gear and strong language. Make sure you traverse left next to Valentine at the top or you'll kick large choss pieces down.
The second pitch is one of 3 candidates for greatest lieback crack in the Wasatch.
By Fett
Nov 25, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Almost got the onsite on the first pitch, sweet moves and good exposure. Will be a lot better with more traffic.
By grk10vq
Administrator
Nov 25, 2009

5.10e
By Ari Menitove
Aug 19, 2010

Outstanding route! Despite a little grit and awkwardness, the first pitch is really good. The second pitch is even better - kind of like Split Fingers (Beckeys Wall Area) with training wheels.
By Pete Spri
Jun 15, 2011

Gonna agree with Boissal about the first pitch. Gritty and groove-ish pro at the start. Actually, the whole crack is pretty much a groove as well as gritty, but every time you start thinking "I need a good placement!" a good placement that you can feel pretty good about shows up.
By Spencer Weiler
From: SLC, UT
Mar 17, 2013

Pitch 2 was really fun. Unintentionally avoided first pitch by rappelling to the base of 2nd via Enter the Dragon's anchors. Bolt spacing was perfect and crux came inbetween bolts 2 and 3 around bulge. Much more fun than Split Fingers because of better pro and I could actually climb it.
By Alex Quitiquit
From: Salt Lake City
Apr 22, 2013
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Another great addition to the Dragon Arch area. The first pitch takes small gear and is funkness, but lots of fun.

The second pitch is a beautiful and consistent lieback funfest.

Bordering the 5.10+ / 5.11- grade (at least until it cleans up a bit more)
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Apr 22, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Bordering 10+/11- puts it anywhere from 10c to 11b. Make up your mind or go with 10e.
By Alex Quitiquit
From: Salt Lake City
May 1, 2013
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

5.10e-