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Gill's Buttress
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Gill's Nose 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  TR
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: John Gill, First Lead: Tommy Deutchler
Page Views: 4,527
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Jan 1, 2002

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Scott Stewert and Pete Cleveland showing their bes...

Description 

Gill climbed it first, but a foothold broke shortly thereafter. Locate the slab between Brinton's and Gill's Buttresses--the route climbs the prominent nose to the right of the slab. A classic Devil's Lake hard route.

At the crux, the original line goes left to a big flat jug and clocks in at 11b. However, the more direct finish (keeping your right hand on or near the corner) certainly requires an 11c effort.

Protection 

Toprope


Photos of Gill's Nose Slideshow Add Photo
Devils lake. Topping out on Gills Nose. Photo Isaac Therneau.
Devils lake. Topping out on Gills Nose. Photo Isaa...
Devils Lake. Crux of Gill's Nose. Paul Wagener belaying (Thanks, Paul!). Photo: Isaac Therneau. October '08.
Devils Lake. Crux of Gill's Nose. Paul Wagener bel...
Rhoads. <br />Photo: J. Fellenz
Rhoads.
Photo: J. Fellenz
Slapping the arete on Gill's - Photo by: Scott Van Den Heuvel
Slapping the arete on Gill's - Photo by: Scott Van...
Rhoads on lead.  <br />Photo: J. Fellenz
Rhoads on lead.
Photo: J. Fellenz
Devils Lake. Gills Nose, the unprotected lower section. Photo: Isaac Therneau.
Devils Lake. Gills Nose, the unprotected lower sec...
Almost through the crux - Photo: Scott Van Den Heuvel
Almost through the crux - Photo: Scott Van Den Heu...
Stew powering through the intense cold - DL Hardcore 1-16-2010
Stew powering through the intense cold - DL Hardco...
Peter Vintoniv on the second lead of Gills Nose Direct. Photo by Andrew Burr
Peter Vintoniv on the second lead of Gills Nose Di...
Beginning the crux of Gill's - Photo: Scott Van Den Heuvel
Beginning the crux of Gill's - Photo: Scott Van De...
Goran, on the go before the send!
Goran, on the go before the send!
Gill's Buttress
BETA PHOTO: Gill's Buttress
Stew looking miserable - DL Hardcore 1-16-2010
Stew looking miserable - DL Hardcore 1-16-2010
"Crazy" Tommy Deutchler attempting Gill's Nose summer of '72.
"Crazy" Tommy Deutchler attempting Gill's Nose sum...
Pete from SLC, Gills Nose Direct 2nd lead.
Pete from SLC, Gills Nose Direct 2nd lead.
Rhoads <br />Photo: J. Fellenz
Rhoads
Photo: J. Fellenz
Low on Gill's - Photo: Scott Van Den Heuvel
Low on Gill's - Photo: Scott Van Den Heuvel
Appropriate DL footwork
Appropriate DL footwork

Comments on Gill's Nose Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 15, 2010
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Apr 22, 2002

Are you sure Gill did the FA of Gill's Nose. I think it was Roger Weigand, probably with Pete Cleveland. At least I recall him telling me he did.

I've been known to be wrong.
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Apr 23, 2002

According to the Climber and Hiker's Guidebook (1970), Gill did it first, but a foothold broke. Maybe Roger Weigand did the first "foothold-less" ascent.
By Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart"
May 3, 2002

I thought you might like to see a few "In the Day" photo's. When I took these in '72-'73 I don't think the route had been repeated yet. We used to gather here in the afternoon to give a few tries and the pictures are of Pete Cleveland and Scott Steward discussing the moves and a picture of "Crazy" Tom Deutchler on a TR attempt.
By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
May 12, 2002

the proud first lead of GILL'S NOSE was by Tommy Deutchler
By Anonymous Coward
Apr 15, 2003

Is that a boeline on a coil?
By Tom Anderson-Brown
From: Madison, WI
Apr 16, 2003

If you're talking about Tommy D's tie-in, I think that's called a swami belt.
By James M Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Nov 26, 2006

Jay-

Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't the 11b "variation" the original line, and the 11c actually a more direct variation of that line?
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Nov 28, 2006

James, I think you are right that the indirect finish is the original line and the direct, harder finish was added later.

Does anyone know if Tommy Deutchler led the direct variation or if he went out left to the jug?
By Tradoholic
Mar 5, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X

I'm still confused on which line is Gills Nose Lead. When I've top roped it in the past I've always gone straight up, not to the ledge jug on the left, (isn't that "Gills Cheek" or something?) but also I haven't used the arete. First off what's harder? Second, what's the original line? The Arete is the end of Peyote Blues correct?

Krys, Huston, on the lead did you go left or straight? Looks left in the photos. I've found straight up to be a little longer in moves but the way I do that little traverse to the jug left felt really insecure, which of course is fine on TR but on lead I think I prefer staying right and more "secure".

The gear that I got in was 100% though.

Ah, fuck it, I'm splitting hairs, I'm going to go for straight up.
By Kris Gorny
Administrator
Mar 10, 2009
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X

Hey Nick,
I think going to the jug left is the original line put up by Gill. I believe I did it the way Jason H had (from looking at his pics). Dave Groth showed me the way you are describing. Going on the arete is a harder variation which has a possible ground fall from the crux. I dropped a pack from it a month ago (Jason H was there too) and it stopped just above the ground but there was almost no rope stretch so any fall there wouldn't be pleasant.
By Tradoholic
Mar 12, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X

Ok, so we will need the patented Vince Evans running be-lay.
By Tradoholic
Mar 17, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X

Got the direct! It was agreed that I probably wouldn't have decked from the top crux with a belayer jump off that log holding the erosion back.
Speaking of erosion a big rock at the base of Gills Nose turned over today from just someone standing on it. Lots of stuff is loose around the base of the east bluff. Watch out!
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Mar 17, 2009
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Rhoads was on it today, a great lead! I had him on belay and I don't think he would have decked from the upper crux.
By Kris Gorny
Administrator
Mar 19, 2009
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X

Great job Nick. Congrats.
By Tradoholic
Mar 22, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X

Ah, after looking at the photos I think I might have crotched the rope in the event of a fall. Good thing I don't ever have to do it again! Except for the future "retro flash" I guess.
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Mar 23, 2009

Is a retro flash when you get senile and forget your beta so it seems like an onsight? If so that's happened to me many times... Gotta change all those styles on my 8a scorecard, if only I could remember my login name... Congrats Nick, is that a FL of the direct?
By Tradoholic
Mar 23, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X

Not sure on the FL. There was a "2nd generation DLFA" there, Scott, and he thought it was.
You are correct on the "retro flash".
By Tradoholic
Oct 15, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X

Gill's Nose Direct saw a second lead yesterday from a visiting SLC climber. Andrew Burr was taking pics for Climbing Magazine as it went down. Look forward to an article!
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Oct 15, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Andrew Burr's photos are sick! I can't wait to see them!