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Doug's Roof
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blasting Hole Problem Left 
Blasting Hole Problem Right 
Crack, The 
Dark Bulge, The 
Gill's Double Clutch 
Larsen's Leap 
Left Bulge 
Mental Block unknown 
Middle Traverse 
Unnamed DA 1 
Unnamed DA 2 
Unnamed DA 3 
Unnamed DA 4 
Unnamed DA 5 
Unnamed DA 6 
Unnamed DA 7 

Gill's Double Clutch 

Hueco: V4 Font: 6B

Type:  Boulder, 12'
Consensus:  Hueco: V4 Font: 6B [details]
FA: John Gill 1969
Page Views: 1,351
Submitted By: Anthony Baraff on Sep 1, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: The center of Doug's Roof: 1. Gill's Double Clutch...


The grey Williams guide to the Trapps lists the Gill Boulder problem as a no star 5.12a R rated climb. I'm not sure what he thinks is R rated about it as the crux and thin section is less than 10 feet off the deck. Anyway, we're writing this up as a boulder problem anyway so we can dispense with all talk of gear, although for a trad climber completing this boulder it's very tempting to go out there with a rope and a few cams to bag one's first Gunks 5.12.

Unfortunately, unlike the several other boulder problems that bear his name this one is no classic, although I have so far skipped turning this boulder problem into a free solo by going through the roof--maybe that bumps the quality, but I think not.

The problem starts from a pair of thin holds 8 feet up below a notch in the roof. It's probably necessary to use a cheater stone or stacked pads for anyone shorter than 6' 6" to reach the first holds. Use the left facing sloper and whatever feet you can find on the mainly blank bulging face to gain the horizontal below the roof. If you're feeling dangerous, complete the free solo attempt by going though the notch in the roof.


In the middle of the bulge near the left side of Doug's Roof between crack just past Larsen's Leap and the holds of the Middle Traverse variation. (See Beta Photo)


Stacked pads.

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