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Gill's Buttress
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A Cleveland Route 
Acid Rock 
Blood Alcohol 
Boy Scout 
Fantasy 
Gill's Crack 
Gill's Nose 
Ice 
In Search of the Lost Libido 
Peyote Blues 
Psilocybin 
Slut For Punishment 
Spine, The 
Twin Cracks 
Weasels Ripped My Flesh 

Gill's Buttress 


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Administrators: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, Chris treggE, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Jay Knower on May 14, 2002

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BETA PHOTO: Gill's Buttress

Description 

Gill's Buttress might be the best spot on the East Rampart, though nearby Brinton's Buttress might give it a run for it's money. Gill's Buttress holds a higher density of hard climbs than any other wall at DL. Classics 5.12's such as Acid Rock and Peyote Blues ascend the perfectly sheer, perfectly vertical south face of the buttress. Notorious thin and nightmarishly technical 5.13's such as Ice and Psilocybin also grace this wall.

But, of course, the centerpiece of the buttress is Gill's Nose, an aptly named route with a colorful history and just enough pro to beckon some brave souls into a lead. Just to it's left, Gill's Crack holds its own history, and might be one of the best 5.10's at the Lake. But, as with every route on the buttress, it has a bit of a reputation.


Getting There 

To find Gill's Buttress hike the CCC Trail to "T" in the trail at The Monster. Turn left at The Monster and continue up (northwest) until you reach a second "T". To get to the base of Gill's turn left and hike along the wall on the climber's trail. Gill's is about 80 feet west of the "T" in the trail at the Pedestal Buttress.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Gill's Buttress:
Boy Scout   5.3     Trad, TR   
The Spine   5.4     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30 feet   
Fantasy   5.10b     TR, 30 feet   
Gill's Crack   5.10c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Gill's Nose   5.11c     TR   
Acid Rock   5.12a     TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet   
Slut For Punishment   5.12a     TR   
In Search of the Lost Libido   5.12b     TR, 35 feet   
Peyote Blues   5.12b     TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet   
A Cleveland Route   5.12b/c     TR, 40 feet   
Psilocybin   5.13a     TR, 1 pitch, 30 feet   
Ice   5.13     TR   
Blood Alcohol   5.13+     TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet   
Browse More Classics in Gill's Buttress

Featured Route For Gill's Buttress
Zschiesche back in the day,.. of skin and bones, and bad mullets. Sending the crimpfest barefoot, circa 1995.

Ice 5.13  WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Gill's Buttress
stupendous effort by strongman dave groth in about 1985 or 86. follow the right side of arete at gills nose and join peyote blues?...[more]   Browse More Classics in WI