The majority of the routes are moderate cracks and faces with good protection, which makes this a popular area for those wishing to escape the crowds of more popular locales like Echo Rock and Hemingway Buttress. Getting there involves a hike of about a mile, but it's mostly level and on a well-defined trail, which makes it quite easy. Climbable throughout the day/season with morning shade and afternoon sun.
Approach, from the parking lot at Key's Corner, as per the Ellsmere Island area, but continue north another 200 meters or so beyond that crag until the crag comes into view. A short approach up the rocky hillside leads to the various crags. Plan on 30-40 minutes for the approach.
Start on corners/cracks to the left of As the Wind Blows obvious corner. Up through discontinuous cracks (mealy-ish rock) then to the first bolt, then a long run to the second bolt. Exit left to sling anchor atop Through the Looking Glass. Or, continue straight up (thin! ~5.10a/b) to horizontal crack (which can be downclimbed left to the aforementioned anchor)....[more]Browse More Classics in CA