The majority of the routes are moderate cracks and faces with good protection, which makes this a popular area for those wishing to escape the crowds of more popular locales like Echo Rock and Hemingway Buttress. Getting there involves a hike of about a mile, but it's mostly level and on a well-defined trail, which makes it quite easy. Climbable throughout the day/season with morning shade and afternoon sun.
Approach, from the parking lot at Key's Corner, as per the Ellsmere Island area, but continue north another 200 meters or so beyond that crag until the crag comes into view. A short approach up the rocky hillside leads to the various crags. Plan on 30-40 minutes for the approach.
Follow crack up past horizontals to first of four bolts. Follow bolt line up, then exit to the left to the anchor slings on the large block. Crux may be the friction between the bolts....[more]Browse More Classics in CA