The majority of the routes are moderate cracks and faces with good protection, which makes this a popular area for those wishing to escape the crowds of more popular locales like Echo Rock and Hemingway Buttress. Getting there involves a hike of about a mile, but it's mostly level and on a well-defined trail, which makes it quite easy. Climbable throughout the day/season with morning shade and afternoon sun.
Approach, from the parking lot at Key's Corner, as per the Ellsmere Island area, but continue north another 200 meters or so beyond that crag until the crag comes into view. A short approach up the rocky hillside leads to the various crags. Plan on 30-40 minutes for the approach.
This route is located on the west face of a large block that sits down and right from the main Gilligan's Island crag. Make some face moves past a bolt into a left-facing flake, climb that to it's end and finish with some easier face climbing to the top. Descend off the right side of the formation. Fun climbing on good rock merit two stars out of five. Originally done with no bolts; the bolt was added later by another party believing they were doing the first ascent. ...[more]Browse More Classics in CA