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Gilligan's Island (AKA: The Alcove)

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Gilligan's Island (AKA: The Alcove)  

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Submitted By: Scott Beguin on May 7, 2008
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This is a nice little island crag that offers some nice moderate climbing away from the crowds and lookey-lous typically encountered at Diablo. The rock is good and offers both sun and shade for whatever season you are there. There are great views from on top of the island. Some guide books have referred to this as the Alcove. The crux used to be getting off of the island, which is no longer required.

Getting There 

Same approach as for The Grotto but continue up The Grotto on a talus field and veer to the west at The Grotto's exit. Continue to the top of this little mesa which is the top of The Grotto's West Wall. Then scramble across and down into another talus gully where the east facing side of Gilligan's Island can be viewed.

Climbing Season

Weather station 6.9 miles from here

5 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For Gilligan's Island (AKA: The Alcove)
Bill seconding up the route.

Larcombe's Lament (aka Dog Bite at Diablo) 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  NM : Santa Fe Area : ... : Gilligan's Island (AKA: The...
Clip the low first bolt from leaning across the small gap at the base. Then pull on awkward, sloping holds to a decent crimp to clip the second bolt. Getting to this point is the crux so a stick clip or attentive belayer is a good idea. Fun, positive arÍte climbing continues past four more bolts to the anchor. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Comments on Gilligan's Island (AKA: The Alcove) Add Comment
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By Chris Wenker
From: Santa Fe
May 8, 2008
"Some guide books have referred to this as the Alcove."

All the guides that I can find designate this as the Alcove; e.g., Beverly (2006:214,224,230), Bradshaw ( losalamos.com/diablo/Beyond_Gr... and losalamos.com/diablo/Alcove.as... ), and Kodas ( vainokodas.com/climbing/nmrout... ), although Jackson (2006) leaves the crag unnamed. Why the break with historical precedent?
By Karl Kiser
Mar 6, 2009
Generally two groups developed climbs at Diablo in the 1990s. This explains the double naming pattern. The person who publishes first seems to establish the name.
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