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Gilligan's Island (AKA: The Alcove)

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Gilligan's Island (AKA: The Alcove) 


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Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Scott Beguin on May 7, 2008
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Description 

This is a nice little island crag that offers some nice moderate climbing away from the crowds and lookey-lous typically encountered at Diablo. The rock is good and offers both sun and shade for whatever season you are there. There are great views from on top of the island. Some guide books have referred to this as the Alcove. The crux used to be getting off of the island, which is no longer required.


Getting There 

Same approach as for The Grotto but continue up The Grotto on a talus field and veer to the west at The Grotto's exit. Continue to the top of this little mesa which is the top of The Grotto's West Wall. Then scramble across and down into another talus gully where the east facing side of Gilligan's Island can be viewed.


Climbing Season


5 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',2],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Gilligan's Island (AKA: The Alcove)
Billy on an earlier ascent of The Skipper Too, before the decision to put anchors at the top.

The Skipper Too 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b  NM : Santa Fe Area : ... : Gilligan's Island (AKA: The...
This climb is a north facing route that offers some fine Diablo moderate trad climbing that is usually free from crowds. It is a good choice on a hot day. Start up a moderate off width in a left facing dihedral and continue to some wide hands to hands out the top with dependable gear placements all of the way up. Bolted anchors were eventually put on this route because we were getting tired of having to jump or down climb off of the island....[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Comments on Gilligan's Island (AKA: The Alcove) Add Comment
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By Chris Wenker
From: Santa Fe
May 8, 2008

"Some guide books have referred to this as the Alcove."

All the guides that I can find designate this as the Alcove; e.g., Beverly (2006:214,224,230), Bradshaw ( www.losalamos.com/diablo/Beyond_Grotto.asp and www.losalamos.com/diablo/Alcove.asp ), and Kodas ( www.vainokodas.com/climbing/nmroutes/alcovearea.html ), although Jackson (2006) leaves the crag unnamed. Why the break with historical precedent?

By Karl Kiser
Mar 6, 2009

Generally two groups developed climbs at Diablo in the 1990s. This explains the double naming pattern. The person who publishes first seems to establish the name.