This is a nice little island crag that offers some nice moderate climbing away from the crowds and lookey-lous typically encountered at Diablo. The rock is good and offers both sun and shade for whatever season you are there. There are great views from on top of the island. Some guide books have referred to this as the Alcove. The crux used to be getting off of the island, which is no longer required.
Same approach as for The Grotto but continue up The Grotto on a talus field and veer to the west at The Grotto's exit. Continue to the top of this little mesa which is the top of The Grotto's West Wall. Then scramble across and down into another talus gully where the east facing side of Gilligan's Island can be viewed.
This climb is a north facing route that offers some fine Diablo moderate trad climbing that is usually free from crowds. It is a good choice on a hot day. Start up a moderate off width in a left facing dihedral and continue to some wide hands to hands out the top with dependable gear placements all of the way up. Bolted anchors were eventually put on this route because we were getting tired of having to jump or down climb off of the island....[more]Browse More Classics in NM