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Gilligan's Chicken 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 170'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Drone Stephens and Bob Ashworth (1973)
Page Views: 452
Submitted By: Bryan G on Apr 12, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

About 30 feet up the hill and left of Sherrie's Crack is an obvious chimney. This is the start of Gilligan's Chicken. Few people will find this route enjoyable, but for those seeking an easy romp up a chimney and gully, this makes for a decent adventure.

Begin up an awkward offwidth groove to get into the chimney proper. I thought this start was the crux of the whole route. It protects with a big cam if you're worried about falling on your ass. The chimney is easy and secure. Big gear protects the back of it but the rope will drag over some precariously wedged chock-stones at the top of the chimney. I thought it safer to just solo the chimney (about 5.4) and have nothing to do with those chock-stones. Make some cool moves exiting the chimney onto a ledge and belay here, or if you didn't place gear in the chimney you can continue to the top in one pitch.

The second pitch continues up the dirty groove and takes pretty good pro. There are some cool knobs out on the face to the right near the end. Pass by a large tree with rap slings on it (the tree isn't looking too healthy) and continue up to the top of the buttress. Belay on a good ledge and walk off to the left down a 3rd class gully.

Protection 

Pro to 3", bigger if you want to protect the chimney on the first pitch.


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By Bryan G
From: San Jose
Apr 12, 2011

Just 10 feet to the left of the start of Gilligan's Chicken is a cool looking offwidth flake which goes up about 50 feet to a large boulder that forms a roof. The flake goes at 5.9 and takes a few cams from 3.5" to 4.5". Once under the roof you need to hand-traverse to the right. From here wander back left, passing a large tree and then back right to finish up some chock-stones in a corner. Watch out for loose stuff at the top. Scramble down the 3rd class gully to descend.
By Osprey Overhang
From: ...
Apr 12, 2011

I've always enjoyed this climb, and I've never seen anyone on it or heard mention of it before. My thought, is if you can climb the first ten feet, you will have no problem topping it out. It has been a while since 've been on it, but I think you can escape at the halfway point by traversing right to the rap station at the top of Sherrie's Crack?
By Mark P Thomas
From: Oakland
Mar 12, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I agree that the entry in the beginning is perhaps the crux of the route. Although I could have gotten by without it, I was happy to have a #6 BD cam to protect the entry.

The chimney is very secure with lots of cheater holds to help your arms & legs. You can place pro in the chimney without too much drag (note I was climbing with doubles). There is a thin seam that occasionally opens up, so I placed a nut and small C3, 'cause I might as well! More optional than the entry piece. The exit was a little strange, so it was nice to place a piece there in the top chockstone. The top chockstone seemed large enough to be worth placing a #2 BD cam behind it.

I think the entry to the upper chimney section was another crux in the route, but I suspect that I crawled into it facing the wrong way. Although the top was somewhat dirty, which was disappointing, most of the route was very nice!