Gilles No Limits  5.12c/d

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Consensus:  5.12c/d [details] FA:  Steve Amstutz and Joel Burli, 2/2000 Submitted By:  Fred Vanden Bergh on May 3, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

One of the great routes up on Cat Wall, sandwiched between April Fools and Black Cat. This route is fun climbing from bottom to top, with a crux just about in the middle. Some moderate-ish climbing leads to a very interesting 5 or 6 move crux sequence, then some fun and pumpy overhanging jugs to the anchors. The route is given 7c (12d) in the guide, but most consider it soft for the grade. Your mileage may vary: Gilles took me more tries than other Tonsai routes at this grade, though, even vs routes that are considered tougher.

Location 

Climb up the approach ropes to the big ledge on the left of Cat Wall. Above you is the striking wall, with 4 obvious lines. Gilles No Limits is 2nd from the right, one route to the right of the classic April Fools (7a+/b or 12a/b), and one route left of Black Cat (7a or 11d).

Protection 

Bolts to a 2 bolt fixed anchor. There is a tricky to clip bolt mid-sequence (it'll be obvious which once your one the route), but skipping it is not dangerous -- most people do this. Some hang a very long draw from the bolt above it that puts a draw in an easier to clip location, but to me it seems about the same either way.