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Left Hand Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Byron's Ladder S 
Dark Days T 
Gilded Lily S 
Gilded Lily (Retrobolted) S 
Guilted Willy TR 
Left Dihedral T 
Lilies of the Valley T 
T-Rect T,S 
Triceratops T,S 

Gilded Lily (Retrobolted) 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Gillett & Gillett '90, Croy T - retrobolted
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 3,159
Submitted By: Croy T on Mar 28, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: [Gilded Lily (retrobolted)].

Description 

This is a solid sport climb - it lends itself to delicate balanced moves. There is no need to high step, no power moves. It was bolted Oct. '06 on rope solo lead using Soloist, so all stances to clip are solid.

Location 

At this time, it's the first bolted route on the west side of the approach trail on Left Hand Rock. Start just right of overhang that's 6' off the deck.

Protection 

9 bolts to 2 bolt anchor (3/8" x 3 1/2") with links. Recommend slings at 6th & 8th bolt to reduce potential rope drag. 1 60m rope.


Photos of Gilded Lily (Retrobolted) Slideshow Add Photo
Deb at the start of the route. Crux is at bolts 3/...
BETA PHOTO: Deb at the start of the route. Crux is at bolts 3/...
A general idea for line of bolts on the route.
BETA PHOTO: A general idea for line of bolts on the route.
Deb 1/2 way up route. Crux is at bolt in middle.
Deb 1/2 way up route. Crux is at bolt in middle.
Norman on TR.  A great afternoon in the park.
Norman on TR. A great afternoon in the park.
On the left is the bolted route I named [Gilded Li...
BETA PHOTO: On the left is the bolted route I named [Gilded Li...
Gilded Lily - what a fantastic climb consistent an...
Gilded Lily - what a fantastic climb consistent an...

Comments on Gilded Lily (Retrobolted) Add Comment
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By Debbie Vischer
From: Loveland
Apr 7, 2008
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Nice climb. Crux was about half way up. Needed to clip, then downclimb a step and go left.
By Fred Day
May 8, 2008

This is not a new route. This is Gilded Lilly, done in 1990 by Bernard & Robert Gillett as a trad route and recently bolted by Croy T.
By Fred Day
Jun 24, 2009

The missing hanger on the fifth bolt has been replaced. Let's hope it stays there as this climb is listed in guidebooks and on this website as a bolted sport climb, not a mixed route.
By Croy T
From: Longmont, Co
Aug 24, 2009

I had a nice email converstation with Bernard G. last fall. After reviewing photos I sent him, he said that it could well be the route he established in the early '90s, but much time had past and he wasn't sure. He added he was pleased the route was bolted as it would see more climbing. I believe he was being gracious and in that spirit I have opted to remove the name I gave the route. All other information I submitted stands.