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 ADVANCED
Aspen Alley
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Analog Analogy T,S 
Blue Boy (aka Serendipity) T 
Digital Dilemma S 
Gila Monster S 
Staircase to the Patio T 
Unknown S 
Unnamed Crack Left of Zorro T 
Zorro T 

Gila Monster 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jeff Giddings ~1990
Page Views: 1,374
Submitted By: Mark Mathis on Aug 10, 2007

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Reaching up to clip the 4th bolt on Gila Monst...
Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

5.9 friction. Crux between bolts 2 and 3.


Location 

On the face to the right of the right facing corner just to the right of Digital Dilemma. Lower or rap from anchors.


Protection 

4 bolts to 2 bolt anchor w/ chains. Optional TCU placement in horizontal crack between bolts 3 and 4.



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By tim naylor
Sep 4, 2007
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

nice climb, with good rock.

By Jeff G.
From: Fort Collins
Sep 6, 2007

FA: Jeff Giddings - circa 1990

By Mark Mathis
Sep 7, 2007

Thanks, Jeff! Fun route...

By Chris Wenker
From: Santa Fe
May 7, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I recently learned, from an elder Tres Piedras climber, that back in the olden-days (before the bolt line went in), they used to climb a line in the area of Gila Monster that was led on gear.
Apparently it started a little to the right (basically the start of the 5.8 crack to the right) but then continued up the gray water streak, then traversed left along the horizontal/overlap (between current bolts 3&4), and then finished somewhere up to the left (up the crack or face, that wasn't clear). He didn't say how hard it was, but it sounds and looks bold.
It was proposed by my informant that this old line may have been the one called "Crack n' Friction" in the typewritten guide; but I have some doubts about that, because "Crack n' Friction" was supposed to be a 5.5.
There's at least two other cracks that may match the description of "Crack n' Friction" to the right of Zorro, maybe 30-50 feet farther right of there. Anyone know the actual location of this old Crack n' Friction line?