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Queen Anne's Head
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East Face/Queen Anne's Head T 
Gil-O-tine T 
South Arete T 
Stranger, The T 

Gil-O-tine 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Joe Mills?
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring-Fall
Page Views: 670
Submitted By: Tank Evans on Nov 10, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: The Gil-o-tine, on the west face of Queen Anne's H...

  • Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: MORE INFO >>>
  • Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Five Year Plan's long lost brother, Gil-O-Tine climbs a short, thin crack near an arete and requires both strong jamming skills and finger strength. The rock, movement, and gear are great; throw in an excellent bouldering wall at the base for a warm-up (The Ghetto) and striking position, and it makes for an awesome day out. It's a short route but all business, and it gets 4 stars for a short route.

    Location 

    This is located on the severly overhanging west face of Queen Anne's Head. Approach as for The Ghetto and simply top out one of the problems and continue up the easy slab (5.4) above for 30 feet. The tower will be directly infront of you.

    Protection 

    Singles #0.3-#3 with double #0.4 (Camalots).


    Photos of Gil-O-tine Slideshow Add Photo
    Joe working the route, before the send.
    Joe working the route, before the send.

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