|Queen Anne's Head
Five Year Plan's long lost brother, Gil-O-Tine climbs a short, thin crack near an arete and requires both strong jamming skills and finger strength. The rock, movement, and gear are great; throw in an excellent bouldering wall at the base for a warm-up (The Ghetto) and striking position, and it makes for an awesome day out. It's a short route but all business, and it gets 4 stars for a short route.
This is located on the severly overhanging west face of Queen Anne's Head. Approach as for The Ghetto and simply top out one of the problems and continue up the easy slab (5.4) above for 30 feet. The tower will be directly infront of you.
Singles #0.3-#3 with double #0.4 (Camalots).
Joe working the route, before the send.