Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Gift of Wind Gods
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
   Page 1 of 1.  
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
 
By Dow Williams
From Saint George, UT
Apr 13, 2013
Dow Williams, 2011

Someone posted here, I forget who....to report/take photos of bolts/stations if on this route. Well, I was not going to take photos for you...but I personally have no problem with the route in its current condition. We have way more gear (i.e. small offset cams and nuts) at our disposal than the FAers did. However, some bolts are newer than others and most stations have at least one rusted bolt/hanger.

You could add a new bolt to each station (only 7 because you can easily combine two of the pitches). I led both 5.10d pitches. The first one really only needs one pro bolt. Tons of good small gear for the competent leader after that. The current bolt, at a bulge, is good enough, but not modern. Could be replaced. On the 5.10d traverse, there is some good gear when it heads up. On the traverse itself, four modern bolts covering the whole traverse would be more than adequate.

This route could clean up nicely, much better rock than Woman of Mountain Dreams which I did last week. If one really wanted to invest in the route to attract more folks, build three fixed 70m single raps (just guessing) to take you down the drainage that hooks up with the walk off of Cactus Flower Tower. The scramble to the summit plateau is a bit of a slog and currently not well described anywhere, including Handrens guide. This alternate exit would make climbing this route similar to Inti Watana in terms of energy and it is actually a much better route. It is not near as long or involved as Woman or Revolution.

Good luck and thanks if you decide to retro-bolt it. It is worthy. my Aussie partner thought the rock sucked, but I was pretty stoked with it on the sharp end, all in all.


FLAG
By Rob Fielding
From Las Vegas, NV
Apr 13, 2013
Third pillar of dana descent.

Thanks for the info Dow!


FLAG
By Zappatista
Apr 21, 2013
Book me, officer.

Hey Dow, thanks a million for posting up stuff like this. Working steady these days which means just finishing up projects keeps me busy as hell. Knowing what's cracking with routes like this that I haven't gotten around to is a big help-Greg at ASCA specifically asked me about this one and hoped I could add it to my list sometime soon.

Please continue posting up or PMing about bolt issues you see in your travels. Let me buy you a tall cold one one of these days when you're in town. Handsome Rob's got my digits if I didn't already send you mine...


FLAG


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 1 of 1.