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Apr 13, 2013
Dow Williams, 2011
Someone posted here, I forget who....to report/take photos of bolts/stations if on this route. Well, I was not going to take photos for you...but I personally have no problem with the route in its current condition. We have way more gear (i.e. small offset cams and nuts) at our disposal than the FAers did. However, some bolts are newer than others and most stations have at least one rusted bolt/hanger.

You could add a new bolt to each station (only 7 because you can easily combine two of the pitches). I led both 5.10d pitches. The first one really only needs one pro bolt. Tons of good small gear for the competent leader after that. The current bolt, at a bulge, is good enough, but not modern. Could be replaced. On the 5.10d traverse, there is some good gear when it heads up. On the traverse itself, four modern bolts covering the whole traverse would be more than adequate.

This route could clean up nicely, much better rock than Woman of Mountain Dreams which I did last week. If one really wanted to invest in the route to attract more folks, build three fixed 70m single raps (just guessing) to take you down the drainage that hooks up with the walk off of Cactus Flower Tower. The scramble to the summit plateau is a bit of a slog and currently not well described anywhere, including Handrens guide. This alternate exit would make climbing this route similar to Inti Watana in terms of energy and it is actually a much better route. It is not near as long or involved as Woman or Revolution.

Good luck and thanks if you decide to retro-bolt it. It is worthy. my Aussie partner thought the rock sucked, but I was pretty stoked with it on the sharp end, all in all.
Dow Williams
From St. George, Utah; Canmore, AB
Joined Mar 13, 2006
186 points
Apr 13, 2013
Thanks for the info Dow! Rob Fielding
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined May 8, 2011
240 points


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