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Though the slate quarries on the north side of the valley are popular, Gideon Quarry on the south side is rarely visited. This situation may change with the publication of the new guidebook. Access is officially discouraged but problems are rare. There are some very runout long slab climbs on dodgy rock plus a few crack climbs on mostly good rock.
Follow a small road uphill from the main street in Llanberis. Eventually you reach fences as the road passes between the upper and lower areas of Gideon Quarry. Walk uphill on the left side of the fence until it is possible to enter the quarry.
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Cracking Up 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Europe : United Kingdom : ... : Gideon Quarry
The crux is low down where the crack is thin. Easier middle section then a trickier finish. Originally graded E3 6b, now E2 5c. The grade may be only Indian Creek 5.9 if you are strong with thin fingers!...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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