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Giardia Crack 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: D. Miller, D. Singer
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 2,164
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Sep 12, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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Mike Knarzer on Giardia Crack 5.11+

Description 

Giardia is a superb, all natural gear line for the grade, and classic Waterfall sports action.... The crux involves some powerful moves over the roof/bulge on positive holds.

Turns out multiple people have ripped their crux gear #.5. Make sure you have some gear in before the roof.

This route starts above the obvious little spring at the base of the wall. Climb a slightly unpleasant off fist size crack to the roof which has a very thin crack splitting it. Plug in a couple pieces of gear, and get ready to crank out some awesome moves which seem puzzling until you start into it. Continue up the dihedral into a fantastic hands section. After that the crack begins to tighten down again into another little .10+/.11- section which guards the anchors.

This is one of my favorite pitches on the left wall. Always exciting and savory.

Location 

Left side above Beer Spring

Protection 

Standard


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Giardia Crack
Giardia Crack
Mike Knarzer on Giardia Crack 5.11+
Mike Knarzer on Giardia Crack 5.11+

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By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
Jul 6, 2009

Awesome moves through the roof and pretty tough. Varied climbing with good gear.
By Eric Foster
Oct 31, 2009

Agreed, a very good climb. best one we did all day
By Toast with Butter
From: Tempe, AZ
Nov 15, 2012
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

great climb, but make sure u get the right knee bar at the start of the roof so that you can carefully place your blue metolius or eqivalent up high. I witnessed a well placed but lone purple BD cam pop out and the climber decked. Make sure to place solid on that roof to avoid directly staring into the eyes of Santa Muerte.
By Jake Dayley
Apr 12, 2015
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

BACK UP THE SEEMINGLY BOMBER BIG FINGERS PIECE BELOW THE CRUX BULGE!!!!!!
Today I ripped off the nice little flake/jug that everyone uses to launch into the crux and took a six inch fall onto the textbook looking purple camelot placed right there. It instantly ripped and I was caught by some back up pieces a bit lower. This piece, and equivalent sized pieces placed here have ripped on multiple people including the fellow (mentioned above) who decked and was seriously injured several years ago. The only reason I had two backup pieces this time is because four years ago I fell from the crux, ripped this piece, hit the slab below, flipped over, and nearly went head first into the ground. So back that piece up! The only explanation I have is that so many people have used that particular part of the crack that it is super greased up, so the lobes, even when placed trigger deep, can't get any purchase and skate. Never had this happen on any other route at the waterfall.

Incidentally, my partner an I reclimbed the pitch after losing the flake/jug and it doesn't seem much harder... Maybe a bit more solid at 11+ simply because you can't use it as a foot at the end of the crux. Still one of my favorite pitches at the Waterfall, definitely get on it, just back that piece up!
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 12, 2015

Rusty memory, but isn't there a slammer #1 metolious TCU at the crux? I don't know if I ever placed this #.5. I could be wrong. Maybe it's post crux.... Glad you are okay. The first 20' was always kinda scrappy too, but a 6" fall at 20' generates a lot of force, maybe a runner would help. Or maybe it would be a perfect situation for a nice fixed wire?
By Kevin Kent
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 13, 2015

I too have seen multiple people rip the seemingly bomber and obvious .5 before the roof. Maybe add something about that to the route's description JJ?
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 13, 2015

After 17 seasons at the Waterfall, Toast's mention of gear failing on this pitch was the first I'd ever heard of it. Now it's pulling all the time??? Either something changed on the route, or you had better make sure you can climb .11+ at the Waterfall before trying this pitch. Plenty of safe routes around at that grade.
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