Giant Man 5.12b/c
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12b/c [details] |
| FA: | Mark Sprague |
| Submitted By: | seth hamel on Aug 19, 2007 |
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Giant Man.
Overhanging, high, lots of atmosphere.
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Description As you approach the Hinterlands, Giant Man is off to the right in the little alcove up the hill. It is a very recognizable route, dominant and steep, bulging over the top of a 55 or so foot slab. The slab section is 5.7, enjoyable, following a neat-looking dike that tapers the further up you get.
Pull up onto the steep after clipping the anchors for the .7 and pull on the biggest jugs that could ever exist for about four or so moves. The mid-section is where it starts to get harder, traverse left a couple of moves (while realizing that there's a lot of exposure up here). Pulling up out of the steepest part of the route is grunty, and finish up on a couple of more technical moves. It is a beautiful route.
Protection Bring a sling for the anchors right below the beginning of the overhang. A couple of times I have led the slab, cleaned the draws while being belayed down, and then starting from there and going to the top. To me it was worth it to avoid the rope drag. 16 Bolts. Quick clips at the top.
BETA PHOTO: The picture doesn't come close to giving it justic...
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Giant Man
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Giant Man.
Should give some sense of the business ...
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Giant Man.
Steep. Right hand: HUUUUUGE jug. Coming...
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Giant Man.
Where the "warm up" ends, and the serio...
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me leading Giant Man in the Hinterlands at Rumney
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almost to the top crux of Giant Man
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otey taking a fall from the heartbreak moves up to...
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otey clipping from one of the monster jugs
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jakob... hard move...
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By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 13, 2010
rating: 5.12b/c
| here is some video footage of me sending this amazing climb and the victory whipper afterwards...
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By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Apr 13, 2010
| Nice going, Lee. Congrats. I liked the sound of the water in the background |
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 13, 2010
rating: 5.12b/c
| thanks for putting it up mark! its a true rumney classic! |
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 13, 2010
rating: 5.12b/c
| i just noticed that it cut off the last 2 moves! that sucks... i love those moves... |
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Apr 13, 2010
| I was going to razz you on that: sure your foot didn't slip on the last move? |
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 13, 2010
rating: 5.12b/c
| ok here is a new edit with uncut beta footage (ie the last moves arent missing)....and... bonus.... it has a bad ass soundtrack!!!
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By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Apr 14, 2010
| If anyone was wondering, I got the name from an NPR story while driving up from Rhode Island for the weekend. It was about 2 students at Tufts (or maybe Dartmouth) who went around with one on the others shoulders and a blanket around to look like one person, Giantman, throwing gold coins (butterscotch candies) to people and giving speeches in a big booming voice. Apparently, it became quite a tradition for years and they drew a crowd. |
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 14, 2010
rating: 5.12b/c
| nice mark! i always wondered about that... |
By S. Neoh
Aug 3, 2010
| Forgive me if this a dumb question - are there perma-draws up on the steep section of Giant Man? If so, how many? One of the photos shows a long sling hanging from one of the anchors. Is it a perma-sling?
Thanks! |
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 3, 2010
rating: 5.12b/c
| yeah the steep stuff is all fixed slings.... the long sling on the anchor is very helpful for working the route but i didnt clip it on the redpoint... |
By bradley white
From: Rumney, N.H.
Jun 11, 2012
| Awe inspiring climb! |
By Dom
Administrator
From: New Brunswick Canada
Oct 12, 2012
| Hey What's the deal with the monster detached jug just beneath the second to last bolt? Has it been reinforced? Seems terribly hollow and that would certainly be a widow maker if it came down...
Nice route, the crux is definitely getting to the jug just above the anchor. The rest is 5.11 except maybe for one small easier crux in the middle. |
By irujo
Nov 26, 2012
| Try cleaning the slab on the way up, you can climb the 5.7 with only 2 quickdraws by doing just a tiny bit of down climbing. Just a thought thats helped people in the past to get rid of rope drag! |
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Nov 27, 2012
| You shouldn't be getting any bad rope drag as long as you use a long sling at the Cold Feet anchor. There is no need to do a bunch of back cleaning.
If there are fixed draws on this, please double check that they are not worn with sharp edges, and don't hesitate to remove them if they are, even if you can't replace them. |
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