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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | US Army climbers of the 10th Mountain Division, 1940s |
| Page Views: | 766 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Bosier Parsons on Nov 4, 2008 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Road closure and reopened after flood damage!
Details
Per Steven Armijo: Cheyenne Canyon Road is closed until May 2022 for bridge repairs. Only hiking and biking trail access is allowed into the canyon.
Per Stewart M. Green: the North Cheyenne Canyon was reopened after the floods of 2015.
Per Stewart M. Green: ATTENTION!! The Colorado Springs Parks Department has CLOSED ALL CITY PARKS, including Garden of the Gods, Red Rock Canyon Open Space, and North Cheyenne Canon, to rock climbing for the upcoming Memorial Day weekend.
This is due to record rainfall totals in western Colorado Springs which as caused severe trail and parking lot damage, saturated the sandstone cliffs, and is causing parts of cliffs to break off.
The parks will be re-evaluated on Monday to determine how the closure will last.
Please respect the closures and take care of our precious climbing areas!
Per Stewart M. Green: the North Cheyenne Canyon was reopened after the floods of 2015.
Per Stewart M. Green: ATTENTION!! The Colorado Springs Parks Department has CLOSED ALL CITY PARKS, including Garden of the Gods, Red Rock Canyon Open Space, and North Cheyenne Canon, to rock climbing for the upcoming Memorial Day weekend.
This is due to record rainfall totals in western Colorado Springs which as caused severe trail and parking lot damage, saturated the sandstone cliffs, and is causing parts of cliffs to break off.
The parks will be re-evaluated on Monday to determine how the closure will last.
Please respect the closures and take care of our precious climbing areas!
Description
This is a fun climb for the position and the summit, but the protection will make you wonder. You could climb it just with quickdraws, but I found it more soothing on my mind to place some cams, as well.
The climbing is easy up to the notch. Above this, on the Northeast arete, spot the line of fixed protection where the route goes. At the notch, you can place a couple 1/2"-3/4" cams. The first piton is pretty worthless. Above that you can place a small, red C4 Camalot, but you will only have two lobes in the crumbly rock. Just work your feet a little and you can easily reach the next piton, which is much better. Pull through the crux move, and continue on easier climbing past 3 very old bolts to the airy summit.
The anchor consists of 2 large pipes sticking straight up out of the rock, along with one railroad spike piton with a chain link on it. I actually slung one of the pipes, along with the spike, and then used a jammed knot in a crack, and equalized them all and left some rap rings. One might just as easily simply throw the rope over the pipes, but I was worried about the potential for it to pop, if I unweighted. So, hopefully the anchor I left is still there for future parties (although it still might not be too inspiring to some climbers).
The climbing is easy up to the notch. Above this, on the Northeast arete, spot the line of fixed protection where the route goes. At the notch, you can place a couple 1/2"-3/4" cams. The first piton is pretty worthless. Above that you can place a small, red C4 Camalot, but you will only have two lobes in the crumbly rock. Just work your feet a little and you can easily reach the next piton, which is much better. Pull through the crux move, and continue on easier climbing past 3 very old bolts to the airy summit.
The anchor consists of 2 large pipes sticking straight up out of the rock, along with one railroad spike piton with a chain link on it. I actually slung one of the pipes, along with the spike, and then used a jammed knot in a crack, and equalized them all and left some rap rings. One might just as easily simply throw the rope over the pipes, but I was worried about the potential for it to pop, if I unweighted. So, hopefully the anchor I left is still there for future parties (although it still might not be too inspiring to some climbers).
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