After summiting the Warlock, we rapped down the north face over what appeared to be a newly established climb. It had lots of new bolts (unfortunately these bolts were not stainless steel and will need replacing sooner rather than later). We TR'd the climb with 120 meters of rope -- the first pitch checked in at easy 5.10 (and had an intermediate belay), the second at hard 5.11. The climbing was quite cool -- up knobs and chickenheads and through several steep, cruxy bulges. If anyone knows more info about this climb, please chime in and I'll update the description. I believe that the first pitch described above is a two pitch 10a called "Ghostbumps" and the 5.11 bit is an unfinished extension.
Mostly bolts. A light rack.
|By Andy Laakmann|
From: Bend, OR
Jun 1, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
We did P1 and P2 and they were thoughtful and fun. Well protected for someone comfortable at 5.9+/5.10- face climbing. You'll want a standard rack for the first part of P1. P2 looks run out from the belay, but there are plenty of good holds between bolts.
If you only do P1 and P2, the grade checks in at 5.9+/10-. The last pitch is unfinished, and per Josh's description above seems like hard slab climbing.
A 60m rope gets you down in two raps, provided you stop atop the ramp system on the last rap and scramble down.
This is a fun climb to do, particularly if the weather is threatening or you are short on time.
Jul 19, 2010
My typo on the location of Flying Warlocks in relation to Ghostbumps ( a left/right issue) has been corrected, thanks John.
Also, Josh/Admin's, does it make sense that a route should have a 5.11 rating for an unfinished extension? The climbable pitches are about 5.10a.
|By Kris Solem|
From: Monrovia, CA
Jul 18, 2011
Josh did you guys actually get a clean TR on the third pitch up there?
I would suppose that to be giving it a grade you had to have, right?