Chris figuring out the lower moves on Ghost Dance....
This is the route on the left side of the north face. From a good crimp, make a big move to a money pocket, and then another big move to the upper holds. It is a little sketchy up high but just enough to make it even cooler. One of the best looking and best climbing problems in the Front Range.
I believe it is all about pain tolerance!!! I go about 170 lbs., and I can't imagine having very many "go's" at this one!!! I have never been on Babyface, but I do think this is Very Stout for V6, IMHO.
I don't need stacked pads for the V6 stand start. I'm also 6'2". You can totally tell the ground erosion from the water runoff near the boulder so I consider the V6 stand legit with stacked pads b/c hey not everyone is 6ft tall. The rest of the problem I feel is a solid V6 with good movements and holds. The V7 on the other hand is miserable for me, and I can't even establish myself on it. I'm not even going to attempt it, so I have no say on that issue. In fact the V8/V9 start looks more appealing going to the sharp crimps than starting on them, but I'm nowhere near a V9 climber and have only sent one V8, so it's really just my observation for now but when I do get to that level I'll come back to it....
Regarding Bob's comment above and some the the question marks re: establishment of lines, I can offer the following. In the season of '96/'97, a crew of Bob WIlliams, Greg Johnson, Rufus Miller, Mike Hickey, et al. scoured the block. We cleaned lines and climbed what we could. Kudos to Brian Capps for snagging Purity Control at a time when lots of strong climbers were trying it and coming close. Jade added Moon Child soon thereafter. Anyhow, when I cleaned the boulder, there were few signs of prior passage. There were some pitons, oddly, in the seam that runs from Purity Control to Ghost Dance. These seemed to be for aid practice, as the holds on the problems proper were still quite lichen-covered and crispy. Glad people still check it out now and again. Ghost Dance, to my recollection, went down by this crew in spring '97. It may have seen prior ascents, but I doubt it based on the condition of the line.
Damn, I got spanked on this thing today! Felt like I had to stand on the rock at the base to get the original starting hold, but maybe I could've done it without. Either way it's a fun problem, and definitely V6 for me. Granted it eases up some after getting that first pocket, but it sure took me awhile to just do that! I think Doug nailed it, it's all about pain tolerance.