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The Millenium Boulder
Routes Sorted
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Black Heart 
Cargo Cult 
Epiphany 
Friend to Fanboy 
Ghost Dance 
Ghost Dance (crimp start) 
Goat Dyno 
Hickey's V7 
Island Time 
Lono 
Moon Child 
Old Bones 
Prow Problem 
Purity Control 
Second Coming (aka Revelation?) 
Unsorted Routes:

Ghost Dance 

Hueco: V6 Font: 7A

   
Type:  Boulder, 20'
Consensus:  Hueco: V6 Font: 7A [details]
FA: 1997?
Page Views: 5,375
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Dec 10, 2002

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Chris figuring out the lower moves on Ghost Dance....

Description 

This is the route on the left side of the north face. From a good crimp, make a big move to a money pocket, and then another big move to the upper holds. It is a little sketchy up high but just enough to make it even cooler. One of the best looking and best climbing problems in the Front Range.


Protection 

Pads.



Photos of Ghost Dance Slideshow Add Photo
Eyeing the deep pocket.
Eyeing the deep pocket.
Closer view of Ghost Dance. Notice the unnecessary amount of chalk smeared everywhere....this is before I even got to hop on.
BETA PHOTO: Closer view of Ghost Dance. Notice the unnecessary...
Jared LaVacque, enjoying a break between storms, on Ghost Dance V7,  Matthew Winters Park, CO.
Jared LaVacque, enjoying a break between storms, o...
Ghost Dance.
BETA PHOTO: Ghost Dance.
Jared LaVacque, reaching for the bomber two-finger pocket on Ghost Dance, V7,  Matthew Winters Park, CO.
Jared LaVacque, reaching for the bomber two-finger...
Jared LaVacque, on Ghost Dance V7,  Matthew Winters Park, CO.
Jared LaVacque, on Ghost Dance V7, Matthew Winter...
The starting crimps on Ghost Dance, V7.
The starting crimps on Ghost Dance, V7.
Ghost Dance.
Ghost Dance.
Comments on Ghost Dance Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 6, 2011
By chris deulen
From: Merriam, Kansas
May 2, 2006
rating: V6 7A

Think it's a better problem (and V7) from the two poor crimps below the good right hand one. Best in the shade or in colder temps. Sweet problem.

By LML
Apr 19, 2008

Most likely V6 from the two starting crimps, and V4/5 if you stack pads to start higher.

By cstorms
From: North Bend, OR
Aug 3, 2008
rating: V6 7A

Better problem and V6 from the crimps.

By j.jaeger
Feb 27, 2009

I'd argue that Ghost Dance from the razor crimp standing start is harder than Babyface, which is often considered a national standard for V7.

By doug rouse
From: Denver, CO.
Apr 12, 2009

I believe it is all about pain tolerance!!! I go about 170 lbs., and I can't imagine having very many "go's" at this one!!! I have never been on Babyface, but I do think this is Very Stout for V6, IMHO.

By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Oct 19, 2009

If GD is not started from the two horizontal crimps (the crimp start), what is the alternate start? If it is from stacking pads, then is that really legit?

By Andrew Vojslavek
Dec 3, 2009

Richard, starting stacked pads for the V6 start has always been ok from what I have heard. The ground has eroded creating the lower start (V7) and the lowest (V8/9).

Just my 2 cents,

Best regards,
Andrew V

By Luke Childers
Jan 27, 2010
rating: V6 7A

I could do the V6 start with out stacked pads, and it was so sweet!! Loved it!!

By Jared LaVacque
Administrator
From: Anchorage/Grand Junction
May 31, 2010
rating: V7 7A+

I have added a pic of the V7 start crimps, for any clarification needed. This is a great problem, any way you look at it.

By Squish
From: Lakewood
Jun 4, 2010

I don't need stacked pads for the V6 stand start. I'm also 6'2". You can totally tell the ground erosion from the water runoff near the boulder so I consider the V6 stand legit with stacked pads b/c hey not everyone is 6ft tall. The rest of the problem I feel is a solid V6 with good movements and holds.
The V7 on the other hand is miserable for me, and I can't even establish myself on it. I'm not even going to attempt it, so I have no say on that issue. In fact the V8/V9 start looks more appealing going to the sharp crimps than starting on them, but I'm nowhere near a V9 climber and have only sent one V8, so it's really just my observation for now but when I do get to that level I'll come back to it....

By bhoran
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 13, 2010

Did anyone do this before 1986? Here's Ted doing it in mid-2000.

By Greg Johnson
Jan 29, 2011

Regarding Bob's comment above and some the the question marks re: establishment of lines, I can offer the following. In the season of '96/'97, a crew of Bob WIlliams, Greg Johnson, Rufus Miller, Mike Hickey, et al. scoured the block. We cleaned lines and climbed what we could. Kudos to Brian Capps for snagging Purity Control at a time when lots of strong climbers were trying it and coming close. Jade added Moon Child soon thereafter. Anyhow, when I cleaned the boulder, there were few signs of prior passage. There were some pitons, oddly, in the seam that runs from Purity Control to Ghost Dance. These seemed to be for aid practice, as the holds on the problems proper were still quite lichen-covered and crispy. Glad people still check it out now and again. Ghost Dance, to my recollection, went down by this crew in spring '97. It may have seen prior ascents, but I doubt it based on the condition of the line.

By tcamillieri
From: Denver
Feb 10, 2011

Yes, the low (lay down) start has gone. I've done it and believe it was done long before that.

By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
May 6, 2011
rating: V6 7A

Damn, I got spanked on this thing today! Felt like I had to stand on the rock at the base to get the original starting hold, but maybe I could've done it without. Either way it's a fun problem, and definitely V6 for me. Granted it eases up some after getting that first pocket, but it sure took me awhile to just do that! I think Doug nailed it, it's all about pain tolerance.