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Runout face route, basically five protection points in 120'. Steep start above a slot leads to pro behind a giant flake, a solid runout to a bolt , more runout, a clusterf*ck of gear draped over flakes, placed in patina, and/or secured with cardboard and chewing gum (reasonably good piece) to lower angle ground, a second bolt, and a last runout to the anchor.
Starts 15 feet right of Mothra, 15 feet left of Clutch Cargo. Step off of the boulder at a good large nut placement between flakes to begin.
Good gear for initial crux, some solid run outs above both gear and bolts. Rack a full set of wires, cams tiny to .75. Left the bolts uncamoed so there's no trouble finding them on the lead-you don't want to get lost up there. Anchors are easy to access for TRing, which is what anyone with good sense will do. I don't posess that quality and enjoyed the lead. A 70meter allows lowering or TR, no chains on this one yet. Slings and vintage ring in place for rappel as of 1/14.
By Ed Forkos
Nov 8, 2014
On 10/27/2014, I placed chains on the anchor hangers. This is a very nice, sustained, mixed 5.8. Beware of loose rock in last 10 feet below and left of anchor.