A 25' rattly fist to cupped hands, roof-crack boulder problem. The crux lies at about the 15 foot mark, and the crack never gets more than four feet off the ground.
Unless you have big fists, the only solid jams are about a foot deep in the crack. In my opinion, this is one of the best crack problems in the park. WAY worth the hike (and drive if your coming from the valley).
Walk about a mile on the Cathedral Lakes trail, break left off the trail onto a semi-noticeable trail that heads towards a big buttress. The Ghettosnake boulder lies in the trees at the base of the left side of the buttress. There are also directions in the Reid Tuolumne guide
Long sleeve shirt, Tape. Both optional but highly recommended.
From: Concord, MA
Sep 20, 2007
I'm not sure if I put this in the right area, but this problem is just too good, and it sees very little action.
Aug 20, 2009
Tried this last summer. It was sick. We were all bloody from tips to elbows. Found a decent boulder with a few cool climbs on it a few hundred feet to the right if your looking at the slabs. A cool roof. Probably V3, and V1.
|By David Aguasca!|
From: New York
Aug 11, 2010
rating: V5 6C
This thing is fun...and wicked hard! Can't imagine doing it tapeless.
|By Chad Shepard|
Mar 13, 2013
Just saw this problem posted up here. I did the FA in 2000, asked around quite a bit back then, sounds like it was previously un-climbed. I was working for SAR at the time. A group of us stumbled upon this boulder one afternoon, on our way up to rescue some fellas who were hit by lightning on Cathedral Peak. A few friends and myself ended up going out there a bit over that summer, did some climbing on that boulder and the others close by. It's a great crack, it's over 30'' long end to end. There's a mean sharp edge on one side of the crack, I can think of several people who have the same scar on their left elbow from that thing, use tape. Go check it out!