|Some areas require a guide.|
A very, very long climb with a cruxy finish. Amazing line though, everyone should do this climb when visiting Hueco! This is a very long climb, but not too tall because an angling ramp follows you the whole way up.
This climb follows a line of chalked heucos and holds up and left, you can start sitting or standing. The problem faces uphill in a slot that opens to the problems left.
Spotters and pads
Such a fun line. Long and juggy
From: ABQ, NM
May 17, 2009
one or no stars, now. This thing is really greasy with about the longest approach on North Mt. With a low crux then a second one keeping yourself off the rock behind you. Not much else around either so if it's crowded you'll just sit around with nothing to do. At one time when this had texture and the crowds were more dispersed it was worth a visit, also a shorter walk because you could walk in from the Lesbian Love Grotto.
Dec 16, 2009
Ghetto Simulator is an all time classic!!!!
TO suggest that this climb is now a 0 star climb because it is greasy is to suggest that any climb that is chalked up is polished and no longer of quality. By these standards, then I suppose every climb at Hueco needs to be downgraded to 0 stars! Don't believe the hype (or the hike), the remote setting is worth the walk and the climb is unparalleled!
Dec 16, 2009
FA: Matt Samet, Pete Zoller, Scott Leonard; December 1991/January 1992. I'm assuming no one had done it before. Sherman hadn't seen it, and the huecos were still filled with sand. We brushed out the sand on a rest day and came back and sent, then pretty much made it part of the circuit every day for the last week of our trip. Good times!
From: ABQ, NM
Dec 18, 2009
Once upon a time, when I first did this problem I would have given it 3 stars, no doubt it was good and fun. However in the two times I've done it in the last few years it was absurdly crowded and greasy and for me that does not leave me feeling warm and fuzzy. So yes I can say that in my opinion those things detract from the problem.
Feb 9, 2010
it hasnt been crowded the times ive been.. and anytime im on top of north mountain i'll usually warm down with laps on this so ive been a few times already this season. also i usually leave my pad at the top and this makes the hike really nice.. the greasy-ness of the rock shouldnt distract most as its super jugs the whole way and when it thins out at the top the crimps still have alot of texture on them and your feet are still in jugs so yeah i just dont see how its considered greasy. of course i started climbing in austin and so maybe have a higher tolerence of polished rocks.
Apr 1, 2010
Honestly, what does this say about the longevity of our sport? Will we all be climbing plastic in twenty years talking about the good old days when the rock wasn't so polished. When I was there I was the only person around. It was early November and I just flat out didn't have the endurance to do this thing. Makes me kind of worried that when I go back some day with endurance I will have to worry about polished holds and crowds.
Apr 4, 2010
honestly, the "hike" is a 5 minute (at most), downhill walk that i made with a cracked bone in my foot, along with a friend who had recently recovered from knee surgery. The holds may be polished after years of traffic (a testament to how many people find the "hike" worth it), but the movement is top notch and the fun factor is far and away higher than any other climb I've been on in Hueco. More than worth it. If you made the walk up the chains to climb on north mountain, which is without a doubt the most crowded and polished area in Hueco, there is no reason to make any of these complaints about this problem
Apr 4, 2010
also, you are the first person I have ever heard of having trouble staying off of the rock at your back.
|By Kevin W. Corcoran|
Apr 7, 2010
Haha, yeah, if grease and hiking make a problem 0 stars, I guess Hueco is no more than a choss pile.
This is one of my favorite boulder problems -- it's an amazing piece of rock and the movement is really fun.
|By CP Phx|
Dec 17, 2010
rating: V2 5+
4 Stars and well worth the hike!!! A good warm up, get there early and there shouldn't be any crowds.
|By Scott Brown|
Apr 13, 2012
I was just there, and we were the only ones. The holds are so good, it wouldnt really matter if they were a bit greasy...which i didn't think they were.