Ghetto Blaster AKA Straight out of the Ghetto
|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 150'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b [details]|
|FA: ||Original line-Stan Caldwell and Dan Sperlock '86 Direct start-Ian Cavanaugh 9/27/13|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||558|
|Submitted By: ||Ian Cavanaugh on Mar 8, 2013|
|Good Page?||0 people like this page. Your opinion: |
Cody Scarpella getting in some much needed gear on...
This route can easily be seen from the parking lot at Parking Lot Rock. It is to the right of Terror in Tiny Town. The original line starts high on a block and traverses in on a crack from the right. The direct start begins at the belay stance and goes directly straight up into Ghetto Blaster. The direct start add about 40 feet of climbing through technical balancy terrain with sparse protection. In total this route, done direct, comprises of basically 4 boulder problems with a good rest in the middle. After you get through the final bugle crux you are rewarded with 50 more feet of .10- hand crack as a treat. Descend off the north end of the rock via a 5.2 down climb
This route can be seen from Parking Lot Rock parking lot. splitter crack that cuts Buzzards perch in half.
a double rack, micro cams to #3 BD, 1 draw
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|Comments on Ghetto Blaster AKA Straight out of the Ghetto
|By Ian Cavanaugh|
Sep 17, 2013
After talking to Stan Caldwell I was able to get the real history of this route and the first ascent. Stan and Dan came in from the right via a slanting crack that deposits you on a good stance below the only bolt currently on the route. This bolt was originally a 1/4inch button head. This was replace some years ago by Brad Shilling. The direct start has been climbed clean on TR but not lead as of yet. It contains more .12 climbing but the rest above allows you to get it all back before starting up the next two crux bulges. This route is one of the best examples of hard climbing I have found at the city and is topped with an incredible hand crack. I would highly recommend anyone climbing at the grade to try it.
From: SL UT
Oct 8, 2013
I've scoped this route many times but never lead it. Its interesting to hear that the FA party started in from the high right crack- that was the only way it seemed sane to me, and the guidebook didn't indicate that. I remember climbing in from the right (I slung a tree on a legde for pro that I think is dead now)years back, having a look, and then down climbing and backing off because I was unsure of the line. The direct start looked like it had bad (flakey) rock and no pro. I don't remember it looking appealing at all. Starting from the right seemed totally sane and doable though- now it makes sense. Are you sure there is pro that would keep you from decking for the direct start or is basically a solo? Nice work on the direct lead:)That feet-skating flakey granite sent me running!
|By Ian Cavanaugh|
Jan 27, 2014
bheller, the direct start is actually quite good full of very interesting, technical climbing. The tree you said you slung is where we were able to find our first pro. I was able to place two master cams (1) straight down into that crack that the tree was growing out of. after that you will need to make the most insecure moves to reach a shallow pod you can get another master (0) and then a thin .5 C4. these were ok, not the most inspiring. blowing it before getting those cams in would land you on a ledge, if the 2 (1s) held. After the C4 a few more hard moves gets you to a hand jam and good gear. after you place that pro a few more feet of climbing and you are back on the original route. I wouldn't say it was a solo but R or R/X. I think a lot of that would come down to your belayer as well. The weekend I sent it, it was also lead clean by two other of my friends. we all agreed that it wasn't a death route, but heads up for sure. We also set up a TR anchor just above the last of the difficult climbing, before the upper hand crack, to work out all the moves and gear.