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Hitting the first gaston of the crux. Time to bear...
Start on thin pockets clip first bolt from juggy undercling, from here move right then up on shallow sloping pockets till you become level with a red streak at which point move left, rest on the good holds then make a very dynamic move back right, clip the last bolt then head for the crux, undercling the two finger pocket with the left hand and bump the right hand on bad pinches then throw for the lip with your left, end with the scary mantle to to reach the anchors.
Around the corner from Urban Struggle, starts just to the right of the arete on shallow pockets.
By Josh Higgins
Oct 7, 2012
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
The mantle is FAR from scary. The fall is super clean. Instead of clipping the anchors while working this route, just jump off for some nice air time. The mantle is trivial once you hit the good holds even if you're pumped. The route description is no exact beta for the top, and almost make it unclear. Take the time to figure out your best sequence for the top, because even if you flow through the bottom 3/4, the top is a hell of a boulder problem that lives up to its reputation.
By Joi-Bobby Laos
Feb 5, 2013
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c