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 ADVANCED
The Headwall
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Cameltoe S 
Curious George S 
Donamatrix S 
Ghastly Rubberfat S 
Headwall Route S 
Rain of Terror S 
Rappel Gully T 
Sleazy Street S 
Spice Box S 
Walk Up, The S 

Ghastly Rubberfat 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,311
Submitted By: Orphaned on Mar 12, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Starting the Route

Description 

Somewhat overhung throughout most of the climb. IMO, the crux is the first few moves off the ground. Lots of loose rock outside of the bolt line.

Location 

Near the end of the Headwall, and approx 30' to the left of Cameltoe.

Protection 

Bolts.


Photos of Ghastly Rubberfat Slideshow Add Photo
Captain Morgan's final thrust!
Captain Morgan's final thrust!
Cruxy between 2nd and 3rd bolt!
Cruxy between 2nd and 3rd bolt!
Dancing through the top of the vertical section.
Dancing through the top of the vertical section.
Above the 3rd bolt.  Eases off a bit from there.
Above the 3rd bolt. Eases off a bit from there.
Nice view from the top.
Nice view from the top.

Comments on Ghastly Rubberfat Add Comment
Show which comments
By arjunmh
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jun 14, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Think I pulled a couple key holds off -- while soloing and took a nice whipper. Good thing my pro held! Definitely a fun route, though, if more people climb and clean the loose stuff. Replaced webbing last year, probably due again.
By Jonathan Grand
Apr 13, 2010

We cut down the webbing last Saturday. We are brining two chains this saturday with rap rings off each. The webbing there was sunbleached and half cut....this shouldnt have to be replaced for years now...Oh and we lost a few holds on it too haha just before third boly left crimper came off.
By manuel rangel
From: Tempe, Arizona
Oct 23, 2011

FA M. Rangel
By arjunmh
From: Phoenix, AZ
Apr 29, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Only one quick link remains at the anchors and I didn't have anything with me to replace/fix. Not sure when I'll get back to this route to fix, so whoever is up please be advised that the anchors will need help.
By Jeremy Wicker
From: Boulder, Colorado
May 25, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

The bolts and links looked pretty solid when we climbed today and I had no fear setting up a TR for the less experienced climbers in our group. The climb between the last bolt and the anchors is fairly run out but the climb at that point is incredibly easy and should be no problem. The low crux is well protected. I would advise staying on route unless you want to pull down some huge rocks and risk knocking out your belayer.