Getting Over the Fear After a Highball Fall
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Midway through 2012 I took a highball fall and was injured. It turned out the injury wasn't the main problem as much as the fear that set in after the fall. Below is the video and blog link to the story. |
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Climbing is half mental, or in my case completely mental. |
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Some fear is good. It helps keep you alive. I see a lot of people who I think have a skewwed sense of the risk they are really putting them selves into. Sometimes I think it is your intuition telling you to slow down and take it easy. Listen to it |
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^^^^ |
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Fat Dad wrote:^^^^ I agree. Perhaps you should have had the fear before. Maybe your "fear" might now be better characterized as "experience". Highballs are great but, after having my knee rebuilt twice when I was in my early 20s, I've never seen the benefit outweighing the potential of harm. Probably not the answer you were looking for... Glad you're better and didn't get too wracked up.Excellent reply. Me, I'm too fearful/experienced/unskilled to want to get that high off the deck without a rope. I just don't see the point. Dying is the last thing I wanna do. |
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There have been some great comments above on the risk awareness end of things, and thats certainly one possibility. However, it seems that if you were wanting to try and ease back into it, you might do so by finding some problems that are tall, and will provide a bit of a challenge to flash/onsight. Ideally these would have good landings. Approach them with a gang of pads and a spotter that has his hands out of his pockets and work at it. if you get spooked, down climb and jump off, but proceed at a pace you are comfortable with. It's like learning to fall on a rope. You need to practice on the real deal, routes that push you some, but you should do so in a setting where you can think completely about the conditions of a fall and with a belayer you know will provide an excellent catch/protection that isnt too hairy. |
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why was the spotter standing there looking at your butt? to give him credit he did try to move the pad but his reaction was too slow. oh well he tried and you got the ankle. |
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Having a spotter that actually directs you toward your pad may help. If I am worried about a problem I will have one or two people I really trust spot me. |
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agree with tonto... You are SOOOOO shaky. I wouldnt have been able to watch you if i was there, quite obvious you were probably going to fall. |
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Tonto wrote:Body language says: Learn how to climb routes. It's obvious that you are strong as hell but you not are not confident, you lack technique, and it shows in your climbing. I would ask what you hardest red-point is, but it is quite clear that a lack of roped climbing is probably the cause. At least that was the best way for me to deal with the kinds of body shaking your are experiencing in the video. Take your strength and make it fluid, buy a rope.I do know how to climb routes, but I was on a bouldering spree for about 6 months with no sport climbing in the gym or outside so my endurance was definitely gone. I have since changed that with mixing up my training in the gym with sport and bouldering. |
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TWK: |
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Call me stupid, or chicken feathers, whatever. |
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Stop filming yourself climbing. You will fall less. |
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TWK wrote:Call me stupid, or chicken feathers, whatever. But if you're THAT afraid of getting hurt, use a friggin' rope. It would reduce your chances of getting hurt, and remove most of the doubt you're having angst over. I'll never do what you're accomplishing. But even the great Bachar fell bouldering high, so you may find yourself in honorable company. Live long, climb often, don't blow it needlessly.stupid! |
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Took a nasty lead fall back in the summer. Has taken me a while to get pass the fear and boy did it effect my climbing. |
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No less than the Master, John Gill, often used a top rope (with self belay) on some of his projects. No shame there. Some often rehearse on TR before sending. It's all good. You're still out there climbing, right? |
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TWK wrote:Call me stupid Suqui wrote: stupid!I knew somebody wouldn't be able to pass that up! |
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Just watched that video and I have to say, if I was chicken-winging that much that high up I would be doing everything I could to get back down before something bad happened. Highballing is about control, including any possible falls, not about going for it and seeing what happens. |
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Fat Dad wrote:No less than the Master, John Gill, often used a top rope (with self belay) on some of his projects. No shame there. Some often rehearse on TR before sending. It's all good. You're still out there climbing, right? Still lots of folks are climbing big stuff and there aren't stacks of bones at the bases of certain problems. Just ease back into it on easier stuff until it feels natural again. Just remember to listen to that little voice when it doesn't feel rightYeah still climbing but i don't try to climb on highballs that often anymore. Im back to normal though with bouldering. No fear when I'm climbing although i have more pads and spotters around more often. |
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I agree with some of the other posters about the video. It seems that you have a lack of control pretty early on in the problem. Anyone you see doing tall boulder problems has probably prepared for it by some route climbing (remember how Kevin J. prepared for Ambrosia?). That's never a bad idea. |