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Getting off a failed climb without leaving gear?
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Nov 2, 2012
Moby dick 5.11-
redlude97 wrote:
You carry tied webbing sport climbing?



Valid question. I don't. Anchor into the bolt. Drop the rope to my belayer, make him attach a piece of webbing in my pack. Pull the rope. Proceed with the Texas rope trick. Bam 10 minutes max.

Maillon/biner takes half the time.
Dom
From New Brunswick Canada
Joined Dec 8, 2007
1,173 points
Nov 2, 2012
Man it seems like a lot of people go through a lot of work to bail off a route. Just leave a biner and lower. I don't even usually carry an atc when sport climbing. I hate running into quicklinks on routes because they are often siezed shut. If everyone left bail biners, then eventually it will even out, and you will find as many bail biners as you end up leaving, usually more. redlude97
Joined Jun 21, 2010
8 points
Nov 2, 2012
clay meier wrote:
jump

you should be a guide
richie
From englewood, tn
Joined May 10, 2010
40 points
Nov 2, 2012
The Cathedral Spires in RMNP, left to right: Stile...
chufftard wrote:
just leave that precious $4 carabiner.


Ding Ding Ding!

clay wrote:
jump


Your next best option.
Marc H
From Lafayette, CO
Joined May 10, 2007
280 points
Nov 2, 2012
Dom wrote:
Valid question. I don't. Anchor into the bolt. Drop the rope to my belayer, make him attach a piece of webbing in my pack. Pull the rope. Proceed with the Texas rope trick. Bam 10 minutes max. Maillon/biner takes half the time.

Are you going in direct with a pair of O/O draws? Or are you carrying extra gear already like a PAS and/or lockers?
redlude97
Joined Jun 21, 2010
8 points
Nov 2, 2012
When I was a bum at Frey
STRONG +1 for using the Prussic as petzl recommends if you do bail off a biner. Medic741
From Pittsford, New York
Joined Apr 1, 2012
80 points
Nov 2, 2012
just hook in direct with a quickdraw and do this...
youtube.com/watch?feature=play...

































and yes...









yer gonna die!!!!!!!!!!
DrApnea
From Wenatchee, WA
Joined May 24, 2011
191 points
Administrator
Nov 2, 2012
Moby dick 5.11-
redlude97 wrote:
Are you going in direct with a pair of O/O draws? Or are you carrying extra gear already like a PAS and/or lockers?


Depends on the situation, I've done direct with a single draw but I DEFINITELY recommend anyone to anchor with something more secure like a sling with a locker, or a fancy PAS...if you have one. A pair of draws would really clog up the bolt hanger.

I've only ever had to do this 3 or 4 times BTW. It's something I do about once a year. I've left a bail biner/maillon way more often.
The Texas Rope Trick is just a neat trick to have for example if you get on a route at the end of the day, fall at the 2nd bolt. Realize you're way too spent to bother with working the moves on this route. Do the texas rope trick and leave no gear behind.



Disclaimer, if anyone uses the Texas rope trick based on the vague instructions given on this thread, you may want to quit climbing and take up curling.
Dom
From New Brunswick Canada
Joined Dec 8, 2007
1,173 points
Nov 2, 2012
The Cathedral Spires in RMNP, left to right: Stile...
Dom wrote:
...you may want to quit climbing and take up curling.


Things you only hear Canucks say.
Marc H
From Lafayette, CO
Joined May 10, 2007
280 points
Nov 2, 2012
Hanging at Seneca
Medic741 wrote:
STRONG +1 for using the Prussic as petzl recommends if you do bail off a biner.


Feeling too lazy to look this up, but could you elaborate? I'm curious.
cjon3s
From Sterling, VA
Joined Sep 10, 2012
17 points
Nov 2, 2012
The Cathedral Spires in RMNP, left to right: Stile...
cjon3s wrote:
Feeling too lazy to look this up, but could you elaborate? I'm curious.


I'm too lazy too. But I'm going to guess that Petzl recommends using a tram that's actually a prussic (on the rope that's going up the route as you're going down). Therefore if your bolt blows (never), the prussic should catch you on the next bolt instead of dropping you to the next bolt with all of your slack out, which would result in a ground fall once you're more than half way to the ground from the bolt.

The more I think about it, I think this technique could have some applications in trad climbing if you're bailing from less than half a rope length off a suspect piece. It seems overkill in sport climbing though.
Marc H
From Lafayette, CO
Joined May 10, 2007
280 points
Nov 3, 2012
In the traverse section, double rainbow in the bac...
Just unclip, have your belayer take in the slack, then jump. Repeat to the first bolt, then unclip and downclimb to the ground. Alex McIntyre
From Tucson, AZ
Joined Jan 14, 2011
377 points
Apr 12, 2013
Eric D wrote:
Clean the top draw, take a whipper. Repeat until you reach the first draw. Don't take a whipper. Downclimb from that one.

did that before!
Kyro
Joined Apr 4, 2013
5 points
Apr 12, 2013
Awesome slab climb right out of the water! Rogers ...
Jeffeos wrote:
I used to make my living playing hockey and so taking falls and risking injury wasn't an option. That's say, I've got this down pat: Sling through bolt. Rope through ends of sling with your lead end tied into the sewn part of the sling. At this point you should have 3 strands of cord reaching the ground. Be careful which two you rap off of. Then pull the cord so that the far end from your lead end is what slips through the sling. Bam everything falls to the ground. Much easier to show than describe. P.S. you're gonna die!


You play hockey and you're worried about an injury CLIMBING? Shit - I'd say you risk a bigger chance getting injured thru one of the 'typical' fights I see happening in hockey every game! Like losing your teeth, etc.!
NYClimber
From New York
Joined Jul 17, 2011
180 points
Apr 12, 2013
Half dome Cables
use a bail biner

$4 bail biner < your LIFE
Jan Tarculas
From Riverside, Ca
Joined Mar 6, 2010
787 points
Apr 12, 2013
Awesome slab climb right out of the water! Rogers ...
RNclimber wrote:
use a bail biner $4 bail biner < your LIFE


No kidding. Shit - most people spend more than that on fast food per meal purchase! LOL.
NYClimber
From New York
Joined Jul 17, 2011
180 points
Apr 12, 2013
Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Pea...
bearbreeder in post 3 sums it all up. Take your pick.


Or, just drop your rope and draws and scream really loud at the ground. The sound waves will cushion your fall. Later, you'll learn how to modulate your screams and be able to fly. At that point, the X-Men will contact you.
Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Joined Jan 1, 2001
1,495 points
Apr 12, 2013
"Driftwood" direct V6/7. Also known as t...
Seems like money is a limiting factor here, and you're a dedicated new (or newish) sport climber. You'll definitely want to own a stick clip if you're not interested in downclimbing/falling bolt-to-bolt followed by cleaning your lowest draw unprotected, as described above. If you don't own one yet just spend a couple hours doing odd jobs and go get one (look on another thread if you want to see how to come up with a stick clip for the least amount of money possible, but I'd say work an extra hour or two and get a good one). Or, find a regular partner who owns a stick clip, or if you can't manage that and you've got no shame, you or your partner can start yelling for a stick-clip rescue while you're dangling from the route. If you're lucky enough to have the crag to yourselves, just leave a damn biner, count your blessings, and enjoy the rest of the day. Assuming you come up with a stick clip, anchor yourself to a draw directly, send down a loop of rope so your partner can pass you up the stick clip, and then either stick clip your way up to the top and lower off the anchor (best plan, since you'd be lowering off two points), or lower bolt to bolt, clip in direct with a draw each time, and unclip the draw above with the stick clip. Sometimes it's difficult or impossible to unclip from a given angle beneath a draw, especially if you don't have a stick clip that is designed to unclip (squid or superclip can be used to unclip).
But really, just leave a biner. If money is really that much of an issue, write a note describing your sad situation, invest in a stay tie and zip lock baggie to attach the note to your biner, and include your phone number with your sad story so you can arrange pick-up when the next climber comes through and rescues your gear.
Dave Wachter
Joined May 15, 2006
833 points
Administrator
Apr 12, 2013
Good problem.  Photo Baker
Dom wrote:
a maillon is cheaper than a cheap biner.


A maillon (quick link) is cheaper, yes, but man do I hate it when people leave these on bolts in the middle of climbs. Especially when it rusts shut.

Just leave a biner. Sometimes you leave a biner, sometimes you booty a biner. Easy come easy go.
Chris treggE
From Madison, WI
Joined May 25, 2007
9,164 points
Apr 12, 2013
seriously, take a stick clip to the crag with you. just stick clip past the crux, get to the top, lower off and clean your draws. ive done this a few times when climbing and every time when rebolting- super fast and easy.

NEVER leave a quicklink on a bolt. They're a PITA to remove and create problems for the next climber.

If you refuse to carry a stick clip because you want the honor of never using one to claim real redpoints (because you know, Ondra, Sharma, or any of those guys NEVER preclip), buy a couple of ovals to leave on bolts until you build up a stock of leaver biners from other folks who share your mindset.
John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined Feb 1, 2004
2,393 points
Aug 5, 2013
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Ka...
You carry tied webbing sport climbing?

Read closely.... "... in Canada..."

They do things a little differently up north, you know.


To the OP...this one is easy to do, Jeffeos has it correct. I always trash the sling after.

But a while back somebody I knew died doing this very thing! (RIP Randy)

So now, I would ditch my entire rack if I needed to....
Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Joined Mar 1, 2008
189 points
Aug 5, 2013
 Morning Dew ,self portrait
Done the sling thing, prefer the stick clip.
Someone needs to make a hanger that resembles a Fixe glue in. You can rap right off those babies.
Gotta be a way. Not talking about coldshuts here. Something bomber that you can bail off of without rope damage.
Fixe? Anyone?

Maybe thread the shaft and tighten with a bar through the hanger.
s.price
From PS,CO
Joined Dec 1, 2010
1,363 points


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