Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Getting off a failed climb without leaving gear?
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
   Page 2 of 2.  <<First   <Prev   1  2
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
By Dom
Administrator
From New Brunswick Canada
Nov 2, 2012
Moby dick 5.11-

redlude97 wrote:
You carry tied webbing sport climbing?



Valid question. I don't. Anchor into the bolt. Drop the rope to my belayer, make him attach a piece of webbing in my pack. Pull the rope. Proceed with the Texas rope trick. Bam 10 minutes max.

Maillon/biner takes half the time.


FLAG
By redlude97
Nov 2, 2012

Man it seems like a lot of people go through a lot of work to bail off a route. Just leave a biner and lower. I don't even usually carry an atc when sport climbing. I hate running into quicklinks on routes because they are often siezed shut. If everyone left bail biners, then eventually it will even out, and you will find as many bail biners as you end up leaving, usually more.


FLAG
By richie
From englewood, tn
Nov 2, 2012

clay meier wrote:
jump

you should be a guide


FLAG
By Marc H
From Lafayette, CO
Nov 2, 2012
The Cathedral Spires in RMNP, left to right: Stiletto, Sharkstooth, Forbidden Tower, Petit Grepon, The Saber, The Foil, The Moon & The Jackknife.

chufftard wrote:
just leave that precious $4 carabiner.


Ding Ding Ding!

clay wrote:
jump


Your next best option.


FLAG
By redlude97
Nov 2, 2012

Dom wrote:
Valid question. I don't. Anchor into the bolt. Drop the rope to my belayer, make him attach a piece of webbing in my pack. Pull the rope. Proceed with the Texas rope trick. Bam 10 minutes max. Maillon/biner takes half the time.

Are you going in direct with a pair of O/O draws? Or are you carrying extra gear already like a PAS and/or lockers?


FLAG
By Medic741
From Pittsford, New York
Nov 2, 2012
When I was a bum at Frey

STRONG +1 for using the Prussic as petzl recommends if you do bail off a biner.


FLAG
By DrApnea
From Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 2, 2012

just hook in direct with a quickdraw and do this...
www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=b8Ute5c2BVk

































and yes...









yer gonna die!!!!!!!!!!


FLAG
By Dom
Administrator
From New Brunswick Canada
Nov 2, 2012
Moby dick 5.11-

redlude97 wrote:
Are you going in direct with a pair of O/O draws? Or are you carrying extra gear already like a PAS and/or lockers?


Depends on the situation, I've done direct with a single draw but I DEFINITELY recommend anyone to anchor with something more secure like a sling with a locker, or a fancy PAS...if you have one. A pair of draws would really clog up the bolt hanger.

I've only ever had to do this 3 or 4 times BTW. It's something I do about once a year. I've left a bail biner/maillon way more often.
The Texas Rope Trick is just a neat trick to have for example if you get on a route at the end of the day, fall at the 2nd bolt. Realize you're way too spent to bother with working the moves on this route. Do the texas rope trick and leave no gear behind.



Disclaimer, if anyone uses the Texas rope trick based on the vague instructions given on this thread, you may want to quit climbing and take up curling.


FLAG
By Marc H
From Lafayette, CO
Nov 2, 2012
The Cathedral Spires in RMNP, left to right: Stiletto, Sharkstooth, Forbidden Tower, Petit Grepon, The Saber, The Foil, The Moon & The Jackknife.

Dom wrote:
...you may want to quit climbing and take up curling.


Things you only hear Canucks say.


FLAG
By cjon3s
From Sterling, VA
Nov 2, 2012
Hanging at Seneca

Medic741 wrote:
STRONG +1 for using the Prussic as petzl recommends if you do bail off a biner.


Feeling too lazy to look this up, but could you elaborate? I'm curious.


FLAG
By Marc H
From Lafayette, CO
Nov 2, 2012
The Cathedral Spires in RMNP, left to right: Stiletto, Sharkstooth, Forbidden Tower, Petit Grepon, The Saber, The Foil, The Moon & The Jackknife.

cjon3s wrote:
Feeling too lazy to look this up, but could you elaborate? I'm curious.


I'm too lazy too. But I'm going to guess that Petzl recommends using a tram that's actually a prussic (on the rope that's going up the route as you're going down). Therefore if your bolt blows (never), the prussic should catch you on the next bolt instead of dropping you to the next bolt with all of your slack out, which would result in a ground fall once you're more than half way to the ground from the bolt.

The more I think about it, I think this technique could have some applications in trad climbing if you're bailing from less than half a rope length off a suspect piece. It seems overkill in sport climbing though.


FLAG
By Alex McIntyre
From Tucson, AZ
Nov 3, 2012

Just unclip, have your belayer take in the slack, then jump. Repeat to the first bolt, then unclip and downclimb to the ground.


FLAG
By Kyro
Apr 12, 2013

Eric D wrote:
Clean the top draw, take a whipper. Repeat until you reach the first draw. Don't take a whipper. Downclimb from that one.

did that before!


FLAG
By NYClimber
From New York
Apr 12, 2013
Awesome slab climb right out of the water! Rogers Rock, Lake George, NY. Summer 2013.

Jeffeos wrote:
I used to make my living playing hockey and so taking falls and risking injury wasn't an option. That's say, I've got this down pat: Sling through bolt. Rope through ends of sling with your lead end tied into the sewn part of the sling. At this point you should have 3 strands of cord reaching the ground. Be careful which two you rap off of. Then pull the cord so that the far end from your lead end is what slips through the sling. Bam everything falls to the ground. Much easier to show than describe. P.S. you're gonna die!


You play hockey and you're worried about an injury CLIMBING? Shit - I'd say you risk a bigger chance getting injured thru one of the 'typical' fights I see happening in hockey every game! Like losing your teeth, etc.!


FLAG
By RNclimber
From Riverside, Ca
Apr 12, 2013
Seconds before onsighting Gun Smoke V3, Joshua Tree bouldering

use a bail biner

$4 bail biner < your LIFE


FLAG
By NYClimber
From New York
Apr 12, 2013
Awesome slab climb right out of the water! Rogers Rock, Lake George, NY. Summer 2013.

RNclimber wrote:
use a bail biner $4 bail biner < your LIFE


No kidding. Shit - most people spend more than that on fast food per meal purchase! LOL.


FLAG
By Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Apr 12, 2013
Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Peak.

bearbreeder in post 3 sums it all up. Take your pick.


Or, just drop your rope and draws and scream really loud at the ground. The sound waves will cushion your fall. Later, you'll learn how to modulate your screams and be able to fly. At that point, the X-Men will contact you.


FLAG
By Dave Wachter
Apr 12, 2013
"Driftwood" direct V6/7. Also known as the "Skinner Problem" and "Shark's Tooth." Starts on two tiny matched crimps at chest height. Gets slightly easier as you go, but scarier. Bring plenty of pads and spotters, as the shelf beneath is narrow and drops away. <br />

Seems like money is a limiting factor here, and you're a dedicated new (or newish) sport climber. You'll definitely want to own a stick clip if you're not interested in downclimbing/falling bolt-to-bolt followed by cleaning your lowest draw unprotected, as described above. If you don't own one yet just spend a couple hours doing odd jobs and go get one (look on another thread if you want to see how to come up with a stick clip for the least amount of money possible, but I'd say work an extra hour or two and get a good one). Or, find a regular partner who owns a stick clip, or if you can't manage that and you've got no shame, you or your partner can start yelling for a stick-clip rescue while you're dangling from the route. If you're lucky enough to have the crag to yourselves, just leave a damn biner, count your blessings, and enjoy the rest of the day. Assuming you come up with a stick clip, anchor yourself to a draw directly, send down a loop of rope so your partner can pass you up the stick clip, and then either stick clip your way up to the top and lower off the anchor (best plan, since you'd be lowering off two points), or lower bolt to bolt, clip in direct with a draw each time, and unclip the draw above with the stick clip. Sometimes it's difficult or impossible to unclip from a given angle beneath a draw, especially if you don't have a stick clip that is designed to unclip (squid or superclip can be used to unclip).
But really, just leave a biner. If money is really that much of an issue, write a note describing your sad situation, invest in a stay tie and zip lock baggie to attach the note to your biner, and include your phone number with your sad story so you can arrange pick-up when the next climber comes through and rescues your gear.


FLAG
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From Madison, WI
Apr 12, 2013
Other fun stuff.

Dom wrote:
a maillon is cheaper than a cheap biner.


A maillon (quick link) is cheaper, yes, but man do I hate it when people leave these on bolts in the middle of climbs. Especially when it rusts shut.

Just leave a biner. Sometimes you leave a biner, sometimes you booty a biner. Easy come easy go.


FLAG
By John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Apr 12, 2013

seriously, take a stick clip to the crag with you. just stick clip past the crux, get to the top, lower off and clean your draws. ive done this a few times when climbing and every time when rebolting- super fast and easy.

NEVER leave a quicklink on a bolt. They're a PITA to remove and create problems for the next climber.

If you refuse to carry a stick clip because you want the honor of never using one to claim real redpoints (because you know, Ondra, Sharma, or any of those guys NEVER preclip), buy a couple of ovals to leave on bolts until you build up a stock of leaver biners from other folks who share your mindset.


FLAG
By Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Aug 5, 2013
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Kali. Alabama Hills, CA.

You carry tied webbing sport climbing?

Read closely.... "... in Canada..."

They do things a little differently up north, you know.


To the OP...this one is easy to do, Jeffeos has it correct. I always trash the sling after.

But a while back somebody I knew died doing this very thing! (RIP Randy)

So now, I would ditch my entire rack if I needed to....


FLAG
By s.price
From PS,CO
Aug 5, 2013
 Morning Dew ,self portrait

Done the sling thing, prefer the stick clip.
Someone needs to make a hanger that resembles a Fixe glue in. You can rap right off those babies.
Gotta be a way. Not talking about coldshuts here. Something bomber that you can bail off of without rope damage.
Fixe? Anyone?

Maybe thread the shaft and tighten with a bar through the hanger.


FLAG


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 2 of 2.  <<First   <Prev   1  2