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JeffL
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Feb 18, 2014
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Salt Lake City
· Joined Jun 2012
· Points: 65
I've decided to start working at my weaknesses to get them on par with my strengths. I'm terrible at smaller cracks, crimping, and edging. What kind of techniques would folks that are good at the above recommend. I know that I need more finger strength, over that past year I have put on about 10 lbs, mostly muscle, but I feel that my grip to weight ratio has dropped. Do I seriously need to do hangboard sessions? I'd prefer just about anything else that would help with progress. I've been intentionally picking routes near my limit in the gym that have more crimps than slopers and jugs. My footwork also sucks on this small stuff. Especially the finger cracks. I've got size 13 feet so I don't know how to get much of anything other than a smear in the crack, and on edges I feel like I need to move quickly and get off the tiny stuff as fast as possible because there's no way I can do it statically. As for the hands in finger cracks, I can get decent locks if in granite or something that offers constrictions, but if it's parallel sandstone, forget it. My limit is the 10+/11- area if it matters
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jim.dangle
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Feb 18, 2014
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jul 2011
· Points: 5,882
Do you boulder? Fingerboards will get your fingers strong but there is a lot of technique (fingers, body, core, feet) involved in crimping and edging (as well as strength). Bouldering will help with strength AND technique. Thin cracks are harder to practice when bouldering but the extra finger strength and edge technique will help. Jim
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JeffL
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Feb 18, 2014
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Salt Lake City
· Joined Jun 2012
· Points: 65
I hate bouldering. This is probably why I'm at the plateau that I'm at. I'm probably going to start bouldering a bit to increase my ability.
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gf9318
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Feb 18, 2014
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Sep 2013
· Points: 0
You hate bouldering and fingerboarding because they are hard. Crimps, edging, and finger cracks are also hard.
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jim.dangle
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Feb 19, 2014
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jul 2011
· Points: 5,882
JeffL wrote:I hate bouldering. This is probably why I'm at the plateau that I'm at. I'm probably going to start bouldering a bit to increase my ability. I used to feel the same way, but the better you get at it the funner it becomes. It's also way better than fingerboarding. Even bouldering at the gym will help as long as you are still climbing outside. Jim
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john strand
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Feb 19, 2014
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southern colo
· Joined May 2008
· Points: 1,640
Top rope and really work your weakness..hell it worked good for me...SLC ? I'd hit Little Cottonwood hard
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Boissal .
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Feb 19, 2014
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Small Lake, UT
· Joined Aug 2006
· Points: 1,541
john strand wrote:Top rope and really work your weakness..hell it worked good for me...SLC ? I'd hit Little Cottonwood hard Little Cottonwood has 3 finger cracks and probably as many combined edges and crimps. I'd hit BCC.
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Jon Zucco
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Feb 19, 2014
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Denver, CO
· Joined Aug 2008
· Points: 245
yeah, BCC has a lot of little quartzite crimpy routes. Go there. Fingerboards are boring and repetitive. Get on some hard, crimpy boulder problems. It is more fun and will teach/train your core and leg/foot work while strengthening the digits.
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